Books about German football

German football is becoming more and more popular abroad and more and more people are travelling to Germany to experience it in person. There is a growing number of books providing background and explanation to German football’s phenomenal success.  Here are some of my favourites.

1. If you read no other book about football in Germany you should read Tor!: The Story of German Football, by Uli Hesse. This extremely well researched book takes the reader through the history of German football, from its origins in the late 19th century to the present day. There’s a whole chapter on how German clubs get their names and the story of football unfolds within the context of German history. Hesse describes how in the early days clubs had to fight for respectability in the face of opposition from the gymnastics movement, but how football gathered momentum and became a mass sport in the 20s and 30s. He outlines the horrors of the Nazi regime and war years and their impact on football, and then goes on to the ‘Miracle of Bern’ when Germany won the World Cup. He covers the building of dominant sides in the 60’s and 70’s, the TV explosion of the late 80’s, then the nadir of Euro 2000. The book ends with a description of the inexorable rise of German football from 2000 to become the world force it is today.
It is written in a very accessible style, and Hesse makes brilliant use of stories to bring facts to life.  Definitely one of the best Bundesliga books on the market.
2. Raphael Honigstein  speaks and writes knowledgeably, fluently and interestingly about football in German and English.

His latest book  Das Reboot: How German Football Reinvented Itself and Conquered the World, charts German football’s return from the wilderness of the late 1990’s, culminating in the glorious victories over Brazil and Argentina in the 2014 World Cup finals.

3. Matchdays: The Hidden Story of the Bundesliga by Ronald Reng tells the story of the Bundesliga through the life and times of Heinz Höher. His career as a player spanned the years before and after the formation of the Bundesliga. He played for Bayer 04 Leverkusen, Meidericher SV (later renamed MSV Duisburg), FC Twente and VfL Bochum.
As a coach he worked for VfL Bochum, Schwarz Weiß Essen, MSV Duiburg, Fortuna Düsseldorf and FC Nürnberg as well as teams in Greece and Saudi Arabia.
The reader experiences the history of the Bundesliga from the perspective of someone who lived it. This approach also enables Reng to give great insights into everyday life in modern Germany.
Höher himself is a fascinating and at times tragic figure. The many bitter disappointments in his life story leave the reader in no doubt about the cruelty of modern football and of the narrow line between success and failure.
4. Robert Reng was a close friend of Robert Encke, the German goalkeeper who tragically took his own life in 2009. In A Life Too Short: The Tragedy of Robert Enke, Reng describes his friend’s life, casting light  on the crushing pressures of professional sport.

5. OK, The Miracle Of Bern [DVD] is a film not a  book – but it’s the best film I have ever come across about German football. Set in the gloomy post-war years when Germany was still coming to terms with its terrible past and only just recovering from the disasters inflicted on the country National Socialism, it leads up to Germany’s surprising victory in the 1954 World Cup. Th

e film is much more than an intensely emotional and touching story. It shows us what Germany was like in the immediate post-war years and what football was like before the Bundesliga.



Getting there – travel in Germany

Travel in Germany - underground train

Travel in Germany is a joy. Trains are quick, reliable and comfortable. Public transport in towns and cities is integrated so that you can use the same ticket on train, tram, bus or underground. And if you get the right ticket you can travel long distances relatively cheaply. This makes Germany the perfect place for a football trip.

Local travel

Local travel arrangements are different depending on the city and region you are in. But they all offer day and group tickets and other money-saving deals. They all have helpful websites – often with an English section – which include journey planning tools as well as fare information.

Here are the local transport websites for each club in the top three divisions to help you plan your football trip.

Types of train in Germany

Long distance trains

InterCity Express (ICE) are Germany’s fastest trains. They can travel at up to 186 mph and are ideal for long-distance travel. They are very comfortable and have superb facilities.

With speeds of up to 125 mph InterCity (IC) trains also cover long distances quickly. Some intercity trains cross into neighbouring countries (Holland, France etc). They are called EuroCity (EC) trains. You will have a smooth and comfortable journey on these trains. Many of them have a restaurant car. Some of the newest IC trains are double deckers.

Regional trains

Interregio-Express (IRE) trains connect regions with each other.

Regional-Express (RE) and Regional Bahn (RB) trains are ideal for travelling across a particular region or between neighbouring towns. Some of these trains are double-deckers.

Local trains

You will find S-Bahn trains in most large cities. These trains cover short distances within cities or between neighbouring towns.

Many German cities have underground (U-Bahn) and tram (Straßenbahn) networks.

Saving money

Train travel in Germany needn’t cost the earth, but you do need to look out for special tickets and reductions.

The cheapest way to travel longer distances is to buy a saver ticket (Sparpreis).

If you plan to do a lot of travelling you can save even more money with a BahnCard. This costs 62 euros but entitles you to 25% reduction on all fares for a year. If you are under 27 it only costs 39 euros.

A “Quer-durchs-Land-Ticket” lets you travel anywhere in Germany for a day. You have to leave after 9 am on weekdays and you can’t use it on ICE, EC, or ICE trains. But you can travel on all regional trains. It’s ideal for group travel. The first person pays 44 euros, but up to four extra travellers can join the group ticket for 8 euros more each. So a group of 5 can travel right across the country for just n76 euros.

The “Schönes-Wochenende-Ticket” also lets you travel right across Germany on either a Saturday or a Sunday. You can’t use it on ICE, EC and IC trains, but you can travel on all regional trains. You can use it for groups of up to 5. The first person pays 40 euros and each additional traveller pays 4 euros.

Länder-Tickets allow you to travel anywhere within a particular state for a day. On Monday to Friday you have to leave after 9 am and you can’t use it on ICE, EC and IC trains. But you can travel on any regional train and in most states use local public transport as well. These tickets have different prices, depending on the state.

You can get more information on all these tickets here on the Deutsche Bahn website.

Long distance buses

Of course, if you are not in a hurry, bus travel is an even cheaper way to get around.

Deutsche Bahn offers intercity bus travel to and between many major German cities.

Flixbus also provides low-cost bus travel to and right across Germany.

Other websites to help you plan your football trip

(NOTE: Some of the websites in this section are affiliate links and will earn Bundesliga and Beyond a small commission if you book through them. This adds no cost to you but helps keep my website sustainable. It’s also worth noting that they are services I am happy to use myself.)

You can use Trainline EU or From A2B to buy tickets to and from anywhere in Europe. You simply provide departure, destination, date and time and they do the rest in seconds.

The English section of the Deutsche Bahn (German Railway) website is clear and helpful. You can plan trips and buy Print@Home and e-tickets here. They also give information and advice on the best deals.

And if you want to find out even more take a look at The Man in Seat 61. Its author, Mark Smith, knows everything there is to know about train travel in Europe and beyond. If you go to the Germany section you will find advice on buying tickets, interactive maps to help you plan routes, general information about travel in Germany and links to other helpful sites.

What have I missed or got wrong?

I have done my very best to check all my information, to include every club and to organise them conveniently. But am certain to have made mistakes. If you spot anything, I would really appreciate it if you could let me know.

Find out more about German football

Discovering German football
Are you planning a football trip to Germany?

This short guide will help you plan your trip and decide which clubs to visit. There is also key information on every club in the top three divisions as well as links to the best books, websites, blogs and podcasts.

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12:0 and still not enough

Remembering a record win

29 April was the 40th anniversary of the Bundesliga’s highest ever score. On that day in 1978, Borussia Mönchengladbach, champions for the previous three years, defeated Borussia Dortmund 12:0 on the final day of the season, but missed winning a fourth title by three goals.

Title-winning form

Mönchengladbach had started the 1977/78 season poorly and after 11 games were languishing in 11th position. But a fantastic 7 game undefeated run and a strong start after the winter break put Gladbach back on track. In the second half of the season, Borussia dropped only eight points, scoring 47 and conceding 17 goals. In any other season, this would have brought a fourth successive championship title to Mönchengladbach.

A close finish

Unfortunately, neighbours and arch-rivals 1. FC Köln were also having one of their best seasons ever, playing inspiring and entertaining football and winning game after game. 

As they went into the last matchday Köln and Borussia jointly led the Bundesliga on points, but Köln, with a better goal difference, looked more likely to clinch the title. And to make matters worse, while Borussia faced Borussia Dortmund away, Köln were up against already relegated St. Pauli. 

A new record

What happened at Dortmund on that day is hard to believe. Heynckes, playing his last game for the foals, scored in the 1st  and 12th minutes and by halftime, Borussia were leading 6:0. The final score was 12:0, with five goals from Heynckes, two each from Nielsen and De l’Haye, and one apiece from Wimmer, Lienen and Kulik. This remains the biggest victory margin ever in the Bundesliga. Surely it was enough to even out the goal difference with Köln?

Unfortunately not. Cheered on by their own and the opposing fans, Köln put five goals past St. Pauli and ended the season with a slightly better goal difference. Both teams had scored 86 goals, but Borussia had conceded 3 more than Köln, who therefore emerged as winners.

To make matters worse, the Köln coach that season was none other than Hennes Weisweiler, who had until recently been leading Borussia to glory at home and abroad.

Fans of Borussia Moenchengladbach

Find out more about Borussia Mönchengladbach and German football.

2 Bundesliga – a great advert for German football

The opening game of Germany’s 2017/18 second division campaign was broadcast live on BT Sport, presumably in response to growing interest in the UK in the 2 Bundesliga. If you managed to catch this game between VfL Bochum and 1 FC St Pauli you will have seen a pulsating, hard-fought game played in front of a capacity crowd of noisy, passionate fans. If you were lucky enough to be there you will have experienced the thrill, excitement and sense of occasion of a German football match.

You don’t have to limit yourself to Bundesliga to have a great time watching football in Germany. You can also have memorable experiences in the second division. It will cost you less than the Bundesliga and tickets will be easier to come by. The crowds might be a bit smaller, but the atmosphere will be just as thrilling as in the top tier.

Who to watch

Where you go depends very much on where you want to stay in Germany, the kind of club you are interested in and they sort of experience you are looking for.

Location

The ideal base for a football visit to Germany is a city that has a large airport and good transport links is surrounded by a range of clubs. Football is played in Germany on Friday, Saturday and Sunday – so if you come over for a long weekend and if the fixtures work out right, you could treat yourself to a game from all three top divisions.

Crowd size

The average attendance at 2 Bundesliga games last season was 21,735, but this figure conceals a very wide range. At 55,515 average attendance at VfB Stuttgart was higher than that of many Bundesliga clubs. At the other extreme, 6,731 fans came on average to see SV Sandhausen. So if you want to experience a Bundesliga-sized crowd you need to look for the clubs with the highest attendance figures. If you prefer something smaller look further down the table. Another factor might be the number of season tickets sold.

Type of club

There are several kinds of club in the second division – all worth a visit, but for very different reasons.

First, there are the teams that have just dropped out of the Bundesliga and are fighting for a return to the top flight. Sometimes these are very big clubs with Bundesliga levels of attendance and the atmosphere to match. This season’s newly-relegated teams are FC Ingolstadt and SV Darmstadt.

Then there are the so-called sleeping giants. These are the clubs that were once highly successful, whose fans dream that a return to the glory days is just around the corner. I am thinking of clubs like 1 FC Nürnberg, 1 FC Kaiserslautern, Fortuna Düsseldorf, Dynamo Dresden, Eintracht Braunschweig and VfL Bochum.

There are also clubs with a long and proud history, with armies of loyal and passionate fans, but with much less financial security. I mean clubs like MSV Duisburg and Armenia Bielefeld whose fans endure a double life of hope and despair. For them, exhilarating promotion campaigns seem to be followed by demoralising relegations battles.

You can use this table to help you decide. Click on the name of the club for more information.

Club

Average attendance 2016/17

Season tickets sold

Convenient Airport

FC St Pauli

29,401

15,000

Hamburg

1 FC Nürnberg

28,834

18,000

Nürnberg/Munich

Dynamo Dresden

20,859

18,000

Berlin/Leipzig

1 FC Kaiserslautern

26,368

11,971

Frankfurt

Fortuna Düsseldorf

25,978

12,000

Cologne/Düsseldorf/Dortmund

Eintracht Braunschweig

21,419

16,000

Hannover

1 FC Union Berlin

20,859

11,266

Berlin

Armenia Bielefeld

17,504

8,300

Düsseldorf/Hannover

Bochum

16,933

6,659

Düsseldorf/Dortmund

FC Ingolstadt

14,601

6,800

Munich

SC Darmstadt

16,753

10,900

Frankfurt

Duisburg

14,175

6,659

Düsseldorf/Dortmund

1 FC Heidenheim

12,518

7,100

Stuttgart

SpVgg Greuther Fürth

9,525

5,250

Munich

Erzgebirge Aue

8,588

3,110

Leipzig

Jahn Regensburg

6,320

3,600

Munich

SV Sandhausen

6,731

2,500

Stuttgart

Holstein Kiel

5,711

4,200

Hamburg

Getting around

Travel in Germany is a joy. Trains are quick, reliable and comfortable. Public transport in towns and cities is integrated so that you can use the same ticket on train, tram, bus or underground. And if you get the right ticket you can travel long distances relatively cheaply. The transport organisations in big towns and cities usually have an English section on their website to help you plan journeys and get the best possible deals. So if I am in the Ruhr area, for example, I would go to the VRR website. If I am travelling further afield I use these three websites:

Loco2 is an online company that specialises in train travel. You can use them to buy tickets to and from anywhere in Europe. You simply provide departure, destination, date and time and they do the rest in seconds.

You can also plan your trips and buy Print@Home or e-tickets at the Deutsche Bahn (German Railway) website. They also give information and advice on the best deals.

My favourite travel website is The Man in Seat 61. Its author, Mark Smith, knows everything there is to know about train travel in Europe and beyond. If you go to the Germany section you will find advice on buying tickets, interactive maps to help you plan routes, general information about travel in Germany and links to other helpful sites.

At many clubs your ticket includes free travel by local public transport(except ICE trains) to and from the game. This is definitely worth investigating if you buy your ticket in advance.

What have I missed?

I have done my very best to check all my information, to include every club and to organise them conveniently. But I have not been able to visit every single club in person and am certain to have made mistakes. There may also be better ways of getting to and from particular places and other lower league clubs that could be included. If you spot anything, I would really appreciate it if you could let me know.

Find out more about German football

The German Football Museum

The German Football Museum in Dortmund tells you all you need to know about German football history.

Football history at its best

The German Football Museum is right in front of Dortmund main station, making it one of the simplest destinations in the region for football fans.  Spread over three floors of a brand new building, it offers a panoramic and highly informative overview of the story of German football at national and club level.  Memorabilia and descriptions (in English as well as German), audio visual presentations and high-tech displays keep the visitor engaged and intrigued from start to finish.  It will cost you 17 euros to get in, but for anyone interested in the story of German football and its interaction with history and society, this is money very well spent.  I spent over three hours there and came out inspired and fascinated.

Through the players’ tunnel and into the Miracle of Bern

The tour starts in the ‘players’ tunnel’.  This is an escalator journey through the sights and sounds of football – a huge visual display of club colours, badges, scarves and slogans, and the noise of fans cheering, shouting and chanting that gets louder as you go up.  You then emerge onto the third floor for the ‘first half’ of your visit.

And you start right in the middle of one of the biggest events in German football history – the ‘Miracle of Bern’.  This is the story of how, against all the odds, underdogs Germany won the 1954 World Cup.  As you would expect, you can read about the games, the players and the tactics. 

The entrance to the German Football Museum
German Football Museum - the boot that scored the winning World Cup goal in 1954

There are full-length photos of the entire starting eleven, and masses of memorabilia, including the very boot Helmut Rahn used to score the winning goal in the final against Hungary. My favourite section was a re-created 1950s sitting room, including a television from the period showing highlights of the final.  So you hear the voice of Robert Zimmerman providing one of Germany most famous sporting broadcasts  – the equivalent of “They think it’s all over” – as people would have heard it at the time

World Cups

I then struggled to decide what to look at next. You are spoiled for choice, and everywhere you look something cries out for your attention.

In the end, I decided to spend twenty minutes looking at three huge screens showing highlights of world cup games through the decades.  Winning four World Cups and three Euros is a stunning achievement.  Just as impressive is that while there is lots of celebration and pride in the display, there is absolutely no triumphalism.

Next, I looked at an interactive display about Geoff Hurst’s disputed goal in 1966 World Cup Final. After watching and controlling replays from different angles you get to vote on whether you think it was a goal or not.  After long deliberation, I voted yes, of course. 

German Football Museum - the story of German football

The story of German football

Then it was time for a display about the history of German football and the German Football Association.  There was memorabilia, of course,  but also plenty of facts and stories.  Quite rightly, the game’s origins in Great Britain and the influence of our clubs and coaches in the early years is acknowledged.  A section on football under the Nazis made sure the darker side of German history is not glossed over.  As well as describing the marginalisation and exclusion of Jews from their clubs, this display includes the sad story of Julius Hirsch,  a veteran of the First World War and the first Jew to play for the German national side, who was deported to Auschwitz where he was murdered. 

As Germany is the only nation to have won both the men’s and women’s World Cup it is only right that the women’s game also gets good really good coverage.  The story of football in the German Democratic Republic is also not forgotten.

The Golden Generation

Then I found myself in a section called the ‘Golden Generation’. This stunning multimedia presentation is narrated by Head Coach Joachim Löw about the years leading up to the 2014 World Cup finals. He describes how Germany recovered from the disaster of Euro 2000 to get closer and closer to and finally achieving the goal of becoming World Champions.   

3D Cinema

Next, you go to the 3D cinema.  This is like no other cinema I have ever seen.  You don’t need special glasses – everything appears as if in three dimensions right in front of you.  Holograms of stars such as Phillip Lahm, Bastian Schweinsteiger and Christoph Kramer recount their favourite memories of the World Cup campaign and how they felt at different moments.  These appearances are interspersed with footage of games and interviews with other players.  Of course, there is a big section on the 7:1 semi-final victory over Brazil. The grand finale of the presentation is a re-enactment by Mario Götze of his winning goal in the dying minutes of the final against Argentina.  Although everything was in German, I would imagine non-German speakers would still get a lot out of this film – particularly Götze’s final shot!

This marked the end of the ‘first half’ and I had another difficult choice to make:  whether to take a half time break upstairs in the restaurant or to continue straight into the ‘second half’.  I opted to keep going.

Trophies, coaches and tactics

A staircase brought me out in the trophy cabinet, and there they were – the World and European Cups alongside dozens of other pieces of shiny silverware.

This was followed by a huge display about the history of tactics and training, including footage of all the great club managers. 

The German Football Museum: Tactics

The clubs

You then move on to a section covering  German club football from its beginnings up to the formation of the Bundesliga in 1963. – the early clubs and competitions, the top teams and players in the 1920s and 1930s, club football during and after the war and into the 1950s.  Again, great memorabilia illustrated the history.  For example, there is the only remaining ticket from the very first Cup Final of 1903 between Prague and Leipzig.  It reminds you of the high proportion of Germans living at that time in what is now the Czech Republic and also how basic the game was in those days.  Apparently, they had to delay kick-off until a suitable ball could be found.

I was intrigued to learn that German youngsters used to collect football cards just like their British equivalents. 

It was also quite poignant to see the names and stories of once-great teams that have either declined to lower leagues or fallen by the wayside. Viktoria Berlin, for example, was a founder member of the DFB, won the championship in 1908 and 1911, but now plays in the fourth tier Oberliga Nord. Rot Weiß Essen won the German cup in 1953 and the league in 1955 but now plays at the same level in the Regionalliga West.

The Bundesliga

You then find yourself looking at the five decades of the Bundesliga since its foundation in 1963.  Key events, top players and managers, winners and losers all get a mention.  For each decade there is a dream team nominated by a jury of renowned coaches.

The Bundesliga roundabout

Passing displays about the German and European Cups you arrive at the Bundesliga-Karussel.  This is also multimedia at its best.  Visitors sit on a rotating bank of seats inside a dome.  As you slowly go round,  you follow a 360-degree film showing clips about different aspects of the game.  I could have spent an entire afternoon just going round and round watching different collections.

German Football Museum: Fans memorabilia

The fans

The outside of the carousel is dedicated to football fans.  There are examples not just of how important football is to fans, but also the importance of fans to the game.  Aspects of fan culture – songs, badges, cut-off jackets, Ultras – are covered well, and there are countless examples of how collective action by fans has influenced clubs and the football association.

The man with the whistle

Referees are not forgotten either.  There is a display all about their contribution to the game. Memorabilia included disciplinary reports

Hall of Fame

The Hall of Fame was next: the names and pictures of the great players and managers from the beginning to the present day. If you wanted, there was sound and video footage available.

Time added on

Then it was down to the ground for ‘extra time’.  This involved taking a look at the German team bus and grabbing a snack and a drink at the bistro.  Next to the staircase back to reception, there is display of the names of over 26,000 DFB football clubs, with the motto “Wir sind Fussball” – “We are football”.

German Football Museum: Team bus

When they were young

There was to be one final treat.  I popped down to the basement to collect my bag and coat.  Next to the lockers was a small display of photographs of the world cup winners as young boys. What a motivation for the next generation of footballers, to see the likes of Lahm, Götze and Õzil as they were starting out.

Well worth the entrance fee

This was one of the best visits I have ever made to a museum.  17 euros to get in might seem a bit steep, but the quality of the displays, the superb use of modern technologies and the huge amount of content made it feel well worth it to me.  I could happily have stayed longer, and  I will be back next time I am near Dortmund.

Find out more about German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction
Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction
Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction
Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

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