It’s time for the Revierderby again

Revierderby Schalke 04 shirt

The Ruhrgebiet has more football clubs than any other part of Germany.  It also has more pubs where people gather to talk about football before and after the game. So it’s not surprising that every there is a fiercely contested derby somewhere in the Ruhrgebiet every weekend. Tens of thousands of fans will turn out to see fourth tier clashes between clubs like Rot-Weiß Essen, SG Wattenscheid and Rot-Weiß Oberhausen.

And the biggest derby of all – the Revierderby –  is the clash between FC Schalke 04 and Borussia Dortmund.

The rivalry between these two massive clubs is one of the strongest in football, pitting neighbour against neighbour and workmate against workmate. Games are eagerly anticipated, always sold out, watched in homes and pubs across the region, and argued about for months before and after.

Revierderby BVB logo

Schalke fans mock Dortmund by calling it Lüdenscheidt Nord – the nearest small town.

Dortmund fans return the favour by talking about Herne instead of Schalke.

Fans refuse to refer to their rivals’ city by name, using instead the expression ‘die verbotene Stadt’ – ‘the forbidden city’.  They try to avoid going there (except, of course, on match days) and if you do happen to say the taboo words by mistake, it’s considered as bad as swearing. Indeed, in some pubs and fan clubs, you have to pay a fine into the ‘swear box’.

Each set of supporters has an extensive repertoire of insulting songs about their rivals. Sometimes the rivalry can lead to quite dangerous situations. There have been examples of fans being set upon and of scarves and flags being stolen. Recently, Dortmund fans fired a rocket into a stand full of Schalke fans.

Over 3,000 police and 1,000 security staff are required to maintain order at the grounds, and for hours before and after games, police maintain a massive presence in the towns and on public transport.

You would expect a degree of competition between two of the biggest clubs in Germany, who also happen to be close neighbours.  Just why the animosity is so intense is harder to explain. My view, for what it’s worth, is that it’s because the clubs are so similar.

Both have a long and proud history, emerging from similar working-class communities to become the dominant clubs in the region and two of the biggest, best-supported in the country.

The rise of both clubs was linked to the rapid expansion and industrialisation of the Ruhr region. In the tough early years of the twentieth century, football became hugely important in the area,  partly because it offered a sense of belonging and identity to newly arrived migrants and relief from the hardship of work in the mines and steelworks.  This meant not only that both clubs had a large fan base, but that the passion and loyalty of these fans were intense and extreme.

Both communities experienced the same economic decline through the later years of the century, as the heavy industries died and the large factories closed.  In those years, football was considered by many to be the only positive thing going.  People say that without BVB, no-one would have heard of Dortmund – and that Schalke is more famous than its hometown of Gelsenkirchen.

Both communities are still fiercely proud of the Ruhrgebiet’s industrial past, and still, recognise the workers who built their clubs.  For example, before games at Schalke, everyone rises (almost as if in church) to sing ‘das Steigerlied’ – the miners’ song – while old black and white footage of men working in the pits is shown on the big screen.

So supporting either club is about more than following a game.  It defines who you are.  People say, for example, that they were ‘born Schalke’ or ‘born Dortmund’ just like you might say you were born British. Loyalty to your club is also loyalty to your family, neighbours and community.

It is therefore not surprising that the atmosphere in and around derby games is so hot.

If you want to learn more, the documentary “A Feeling Deeper Than Hate” explains the rivalry between the two sets of fans brilliantly.

Find out more about the Revierderby

Book cover - FC Schalke 04
German Ruhrgebiet

Going to watch Hertha Berlin

Going to watch Hertha Berlin is a must for any football trip to Berlin. The full name of this historic club is Hertha Berliner Sport-Club von 1892. Hertha BSC was one of the founder members of the Deutscher Fussball Bund (DFB), which came together in 1900, and of the Bundesliga, which was founded in 1963. Since 1997 Hertha have spent all but two seasons in the Bundesliga and came 10th in 2017/18.

Hertha Berlin’s nickname is “die alte Dame”, which means “the old lady. The club’s colours are blue and white.

Stadium

Since 1963 Hertha have played in the Olympiastadion, which was initially built for the 1936 Olympics.

It has the highest permanent seating capacity in Germany (74,475) and is the second largest stadium in the country (the largest is Dortmund’s Signal Iduna Park). Average attendance in 2017/18 was 45,319.

Despite its age, the stadium has had several major renovations and now has a partial roof.

The German national team plays here, and the stadium hosted six matches in the 2006 world cup.  It is also used for cup finals, including the 2015 Champions League final.

Olympiastadion - Home to Hertha Berlin

Tickets

Prices start at 15 euros. There is an online ticket shop. You can also order tickets by phone (+49 (0)1806 – 51 53 01) or email via a contact form on the website.

Getting to Berlin

Berlin has two international airports.

Berlin-Tegel is to the north-west of the city and Berlin-Schönefeld to the south-east. The two airports run a combined website, which will give you a good idea of departure points.

Getting into town is simple:

  • From Tegel, bus 128  will take you to “Kurt-Schumacher-Platz” where you can take the U6 underground into the city centre.
  • The S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the city transport system. A taxi will cost about 25 euros.

There are regular trains between Berlin and Leipzig. You can order a ticket with Deutsche Bahn or Loco2.

Getting to the Olympiastadion

The club website has clear instructions (in English) to help you get to the ground.

You can get all the way to the Olympiastadion by underground (U2), train (S5) and bus (M49 and 21)

Inside the Olympiastadion

There is a cashless payment system inside the ground: you buy a card which is charged with 10 euros and use it to buy food and drink.  If you need more, you can top it up at machines, and if you don’t spend it all, you can get a refund after the game.

Other things to do in Berlin

You could spend weeks in Berlin and still not see and do everything this fantastic city has to offer. Assuming you are only here for a couple of days and will be spending at least some of your time on football, here a few things and places you might like to try.

See the city from a double-decker bus

A 24-hour hop-on-hop-off bus ticket costs 22 euros and lets you see all the main sights, getting off and on as the mood takes you. There are two routes. If you stayed on board all the time, each would take you two hours. If you pay 34 euros, you can also take a boat trip. There is a commentary in English, and it’s a great way to work out the geography of the city and decide what you want to do next.

Spend a morning in the city centre.

There are several key sights all within walking distance of each other:

The Brandenburg Gate

This was initially conceived as an arch of peace, but it has often been used to glorify war and military power. For example, in 1933 the Nazis staged a massive torchlight procession through the gate to signify the start of their “1,000 Year Reich”.

During the Cold War, the gate was right next to the Berlin Wall. It was here that US President Reagan gave his famous speech after the Wall was removed, and today it is used as a setting for events, celebrations and concerts.

Reichstag

The German parliament meets here. The building is topped by a magnificent domed roof, designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster. If you walk to the top, you can enjoy outstanding views of the city. An audio guide tells you about the building and its history, as well as identifying the main structures nearby. For security reasons, you have to book this visit in advance and bring your passport with you.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

This monument, which is sited between the Reichstag and Potsdamer Platz, was built in remembrance of the Jews murdered by the Nazis during their reign of terror. It consists of thousands of concrete blocks.

Potsdamer Platz and the Sony Centre

Once the centre of Berlin, this large square was devastated during the war. And then, because the Berlin Wall cut it in two, it remained a wasteland until the 1990s. Since reunification, it has been renovated. The Sony Centre is a quite remarkable modern collection of restaurants, shops, offices and appartments. The architect, Helmut Jahn, wanted to create a sheltered public space with as much light as possible and so placed a huge textile roof over the square in the centre. At night there is a constantly changing light display in the roof which you can see right across the city. You can find out more about this intriguing place here (https://www.sonycenter.de/en/architecture)

If you are interested in cinema and TV, you might like to visit the Museum for Film and Television (https://potsdamerplatz.de/en/entertainment-culture/around-the-potsdamer-platz/deutsche-kinemathek/), which hosts a permanent exhibition about the history of the industry in Germany.

Checkpoint Charlie

When the city was divided by the Berlin Wall, there were several heavily guarded crossing points between East and West. This is probably the most famous.  There is a museum showing the desperate measures East Germans adopted to try and escape – and how brutally the East German regime tried to stop them. Find out more here (https://www.visitberlin.de/en/mauermuseum-museum-haus-am-checkpoint-charlie-wall-museum)

Wander down the Kurfürstendamm

This 2 miles long tree-lined boulevard is packed with shops, restaurants and pavement cafes. Before the Wall came down this was pretty much the centre of West Berlin, and it still feels more like a city in the west of the country. Right next to the “Ku’damm” you will find the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche. This is the ruin of a church which was hit by bombs in 1943. It has been left unrestored as a reminder of the costs of way. One of the centrepieces of the exhibition inside is a cross made of nails retrieved from the rubble of Coventry Cathedral, which was also destroyed during the war.

Visit the Berlin War Memorial

Most of the wall which cruelly divided this city from 1961 to 1989 has been removed, but this 1.4-kilometre stretch has been left to remind us of what it was like to be in a city divided by concrete, barbed wire and machine guns. You can walk along the ‘death zone’ between the inner and outer walls. Of course, the floodlights, guard dogs and trip wires have been removed, but a watchtower remains and displays explain just how brutally the East German authorities stopped their citizens from leaving. There is also a free exhibition at the visitor centre which describes the history of the Wall and tells the stories of the people who tried to escape – some were successful, many lost their lives trying to reach the West.

If you go to the nearby station (Nordbahnhof), you will find a fascinating exhibition about ‘ghost stations’. Several underground and S-Bahn lines still used by West Berliners ran under the Wall and across the entire city. The stations in the East were closed off to prevent escapes, and so these trains would slow down and pass through these stations without ever stopping.

Visit the DDR Museum

(https://www.ddr-museum.de/en)

If you are interested in the Cold War or want to find out what life was like in the communist German Democratic Republic, you should spend some time in the DDR Museum. It’s packed with interactive displays and exhibits which bring back what it must have been like to live under this regime.

Go to a bar and watch more football.

This post by City Hostel Berlin lists some of the best places to enjoy a beer and a game

Find out more about German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction
Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction
Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction
Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

Leipzig football is more than Red Bull

Leipzig football – looking beyond Red Bull

The first thing that comes to mind when you think of Leipzig football is, of course, Red Bull Leipzig. That’s the team that started from scratch in 2009 and has worked its way through the leagues and now plays in the Bundesliga.

But there are actually at least two other very interesting Leipzig clubs that are well worth a visit. And the Leipzig football scene sheds light on several sporting and social issues in Germany.

Lokomotive Leipzig

Lokomotive Leipzig is one of the oldest clubs in Germany and has a story full of heartache and unfulfilled potential. It also has some of the most loyal and passionate fans in the country.

The club can trace its roots back to 1893 and the formation of a club called SC Sportbrüder Leipzig. After a name change to VfB Leipzig, the club was a founder member of the DFB – the German football league – and won the first national championship in 1903. It was then a leading club for the next few years, winning the league in 1906 and 1913 and playing in the 1911 and 1914 finals.

Leipzig lost key players during the First World War and struggled to match its early success in the interwar years, although it did win the cup (then called the Tschammerpokal – now the DFB Pokal) in 1937.

After the war, the victorious allies dissolved most sporting organisations, including VfB Leipzig. Club members got together and re-formed a team which played with limited success under several different names until the creation of a new club – 1 FC Lokomotive Leipzig – in 1966.

This led to a marked improvement in the club’s fortunes. Although Lok never won the league, high finishes and several cup wins (1970, 1973 and 1977) secured appearances in European competitions. They won the UEFA Intertoto Club in 1966.

After German unification in 1990, Lokomotive Leipzig ended up in the 2 Bundesliga. At first, it looked as if the club would survive in a united Germany. It adopted its old name of VfB Leipzig, and a third-place finish in 1993 resulted in promotion to the Bundesliga. However, like most sides from the former East Germany, the club struggled to attract and retain players. Leipzig ended the 1994 season bottom of the league. Relegation that year began an inexorable slide down the divisions, which in turn resulted in increasing financial troubles. By 2001 the club was playing in the fourth division, and in 2004 it went bankrupt and was dissolved.

That’s when the fans intervened to re-establish a club called 1. FC Lokomotive Leipzig. It started in the 11th tier of German football but gradually worked its way up the leagues and in 2011 gained promotion to fourth-tier Regionalliga Nordost. It was relegated in 2014 but then secured promotion back to the Regionalliga in 2017.

Stadium

The Bruno Plache Stadion has a capacity of 6,800. Average attendance last year was 3,123.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 9 euros and 21 euros, depending on location and opposition.

Directions

Take tram 15 from the station towards “Probstheide/Meusdorf” and get off at “Probstheide.”

BSG Chemie Leipzig

Although Betriebssportgemeinschaft Chemie Leipzig was only formed in 1997, it can trace links through predecessor clubs right back to the early days of German football.

In his book “Tor! The story of German Football Uli Hesse describes the bizarre events of 1964. At that time the top two clubs in Leipzig were Lokomotive and Rotation. The Party decided the city only need one top club and established SC Leipzig (it got the Lokomotiv part of the name back in 1966). The best players from both clubs were moved here – and the others were handed on to lowly Chemie Leipzig. Guess which team won the championship. Yes – Chemie Leipzig not only won both games against SC Leipzig but also won the league two points clear of Rostock.

Stadium

The Alfred-Kunze-Sportpark was built in 1920. Although it has a capacity of 18,000, for safety reasons this is limited to 4,999. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 2,688

Tickets

A standing ticket costs 8 euros and seats cost between 11 and 15 euros.

Directions

The number 80 bus towards Thekla will drop you off right outside the ground. Your stop is called Am Sportpark.

You can also get there on tram 7 towards Böhlitz-Ehrenberg. You get off at S-Bahnhof Leutsch and then have a 10-minute walk to the ground.

Leipzig Football – sporting, political and social controversies 

The football scene in Leipzig sums up how the sport has developed in Germany in recent years and sheds light on several controversial political and social issues.

Old versus new

First of all, we have the Red Bull Leipzig controversy. For many fans, this epitomises all that is wrong with the modernisation of the game. Here we have a tiny club used to advertise a  multi-national company. This appears to go against the 50+1 rule, which states that German clubs should be fan owned. They feel that the club is without tradition and going to the Red Bull Arena is akin to a theatre visit. Others argue that this rule is the main reason why EPL and Spanish clubs regularly outbid German clubs for players. Why should football be played in an intimidating atmosphere in a rundown stadium? What’s wrong with attracting a more diverse set of fans? They also argue that without Red Bull Leipzig – a city of 500,000 – would be denied first-class football.

The harsh financial realities of German unification

Away from the glitter of the Bundesliga there are several loyally-supported lower-league clubs, including Lokomotiv Leipzig and Chemie Leipzig. These fierce rivals came to prominence during the years of the German Democratic Republic. Lok was supported by the state, making it easier to attract and retain the best players. The club did well nationally and in European competitions.

Chemie was founded and run by workers at a local chemical factory. After German unification, both clubs suffered the same fate as most former East German clubs. The best players were lured to the richer clubs in the west of the country. There were no wealthy investors ready to dip into their pockets to help out the local club. Also, the fans did not have as much disposable income as their western compatriots. The result was a slow drift down through the divisions and a constant battle against insolvency. Chemie did indeed go bust – and fans re-formed the current club.

Political Tension and the rise of the far-right

Leipzig has seen its share of political tension in recent years, and right and left-wing groups have often demonstrated and sometimes done battle in the streets.

So it is not surprising that these political tensions sometimes overlap with sport. Even before the fall of the East German regime Lokomotive had issues with hooliganism, and after 1989 this tradition continued. In particular, the club appeared to attract members of far-right groups. Many Chemie fans, on the other hand, have an explicit left-wing, anti-fascist standpoint. This has made local derbies particularly tense and heavily policed affairs. One recent local cup game was referred to in the press as a “Hooligan summit”.

While I was researching for this post I came across a clip on YouTube which sheds light on the Chemie – Lokomotive rivalry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IsPcQQdBHU

Find out more about German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction
Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction
Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction
Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

Introducing FC Schalke 04

A book about FC Schalke 04

In 1904 a group of young miners from Gelsenkirchen got together to play football. They had very little money, no kit to wear, no ball to play with. They didn’t even have a pitch to play on. This book tells the story of how the club they formed grew to become Schalke 04, one of the biggest, wealthiest and best-known sporting organisations in the world.
It describes the lives of famous players, takes a look at Schalke’s passionate fans, and explains why the club is so important to its town and region.
There is also plenty of practical information for anyone thinking of coming to the Veltins Arena see a game or wanting to follow Schalke from afar.

Going to watch FC Schalke 04

Schalke 04 fans unfurl a huge flag

Based in Gelsenkirchen in the middle of Germany’s industrial powerhouse, the Ruhrgebiet, Schalke 04 is one of the biggest, oldest and best-known clubs in the Bundesliga. It is said to be the 12th richest football club in the world.

The nickname, the Royal Blues, comes from Schalke’s colours – but they were originally known as “die Knappen’, which is a slang word for miners because so many players and fans came from a mining background.

A visit to the Veltins Arena to watch a game is a truly memorable experience.

Tickets for Schalke 04

Schalke 04 games are regularly sold out, so it’s a really good idea to buy tickets before you come to Germany. This will also save you money as your ticket entitles you to free match day travel to and from the ground on local transport.

These are the best ways to get hold of tickets:

  • Use the online ticket shop. Although everything is in German, the ticket portal is easy to use.
  • Call the ticket hotline (0039 180 622 1904). There will always be someone who can speak to you in English and advise you on the best place to sit. There is also a ticket standby service where might be able to get hold of a returned ticket.
  • Send an email to the club explaining what you want (kundenseervice@schalke04.de).

Getting to Gelsenkirchen

Gelsenkirchen is right in the middle of the Ruhrgebiet, which was once Germany’s industrial heartland and is still Europe’s largest metropolis. This makes it very straightforward to get to from outside Germany. It is within easy reach of four airports and belongs to a reliable, cheap and fully integrated regional public transport system.

If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about  £100.

Düsseldorf Airport

There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has a station where you can catch a direct train to Gelsenkirchen. It will take about 35 minutes to get there.

Weeze Airport

There are flights here from London Stanstead, London Luton and Edinburgh. Regular shuttle buses take you to Dortmund which is also about 35 minutes by train from Gelsenkirchen.

Cologne Bonn Airport.

There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stanstead, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. It’s a bit further away and the journey is slightly more complicated because you have to change trains. If you change at Düsseldorf the journey will take about two hours.

A more leisurely way to get here would be by train – take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels, change there for Cologne and then continue to Gelsenkirchen. This costs about £150.

If you are not in a hurry, National Express will take you from London to the region by bus for about £40 return. But be prepared for a very long journey!

Gelsenkirchen is in the middle of an integrated public transport system managed by an organisation called VRR. You can use VRR tickets on any regional and local train, tram, underground and bus across the entire network. The VRR website explains in English how it all works.

And remember – on match days your ticket entitles you to free travel to and from the ground across the entire region.

Where to stay in Gelsenkirchen

The big advantage of staying in Gelsenkirchen is that you can enjoy the build-up to the game, don’t need to rush off after the final whistle and you can mix with Schalke fans in the evening. There are plenty of hotels in Gelsenkirchen. Here are a few suggestions:

For anyone looking for a wider choice of things to do and places to go before and after the football, Dortmund is only 35 minutes away by train. There are hotels there to match every budget. The Dortmund Tourist Information Office provides advice and a booking facility here.

Getting to the Veltins Arena

Getting to the Veltins Arena from the city centre is very straightforward.  You go out of the main station, down some steps to the underground and catch tram 302.  Your stop is conveniently called ‘Veltins Arena’ and your destination is about five minutes away.

Inside the Veltins Arena

The Veltins Arena is without a doubt one of the finest stadiums in the world.

schalkeinsideIt opened in 2001 and quickly established itself as a first class entertainment venue.  Fans have flocked here to see top music acts like U2, Robbie Wiliiams and Bruce Springstein, sporting events such as the 2010 World Ice Hockey Championships and boxing  – as well, of course, as football.

It can accommodate 61,973 football fans. There are 16,307 standing places, giving the club the second largest standing area in the Bundesliga.  There is a retractable roof and withdrawable pitch and all seats give a fantastic view of the action.  As you would expect, facilities and food outlets are also of a very high standard.

Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the stadium, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff.  The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia.  There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players.  The visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

Eating and drinking

You will not go hungry or thirsty at the Veltins Arena.  There are 15 small restaurants, 50 grilling stations and 35 cafes – all connected by a 5km long beer pipe. On a typical match day they will sell 14,000 sausages, 43,000 rolls, 40,000 litres of drink.)

The stadium stands on its own and out of town, so you would think that there would not be much to do before the game.  But the club has gone to great lengths to cater for fans who arrive early.  There are kiosks selling food and drink on all the walkways to the ground.  Beyond the training grounds – which are open to the public – there is a huge fan shop and a bar/restaurant.  As a result, you are likely to see thousands of fans in the area two or three hours ahead of kickoff.

There is a cashless payment system throughout the arena.  While this is extremely convenient for rethumb_P1020697_1024gular fans and reduces delays when buying food and drink,  it can be a bit daunting for the one-off visitor from overseas.  Using the system, however, is very straightforward.  When you get inside, go to one of the countless kiosks issuing ‘Knappenkarten’.  The card is free and you can load on as much money as you are likely to spend.  When you want to buy something you hand over your card and then say what you want.  They will then take the cost from your card.  If you don’t spend all your money you can get a refund before you leave.

A sense of history

Before every game the entire stadium stands and sings along to the miners’ anthem  ‘das Steigerlied’.  At the same time, black and white footage of mining scenes is shown on the big screen.  This moving tribute to those who have gone before will definitely give you goosebumps. The song dates back to the 16th century and is sung in mining areas all over Germany, as well as at political rallies. It’s about miners preparing for a long hard shift and hoping to get back to the surface safely.  It starts and ends with the traditional miners’ greeting of ‘Glück auf’.

After the game

Going home is not quite a simple as arriving. Although extra trams and buses are laid on, moving 60,000 people is time-consuming and so it can take you a while to get back to the town centre. Similarly, Gelsenkirchen station and departing trains can be really crowded for a while after games.

My advice would be not to rush home.  If you can, stay for a drink or two after the game.  Stop off for something to eat in the city centre before catching your train.

Three things to do in Gelsenkirchen

1.  Walk along the Schalker Meile

Schalke 04 was one of the first truly working class football clubs.  Established in the early years of the 20th century, its players and fans came from the same town – Gelsenkirchen – and many from the Schalke district itself.  This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played.  This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn –  was built.  This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated.

Since those heady days, everything has changed.  Thanks to de-industrialisation, the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working class community of old is no more.  The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the Veltins Arena.  But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots.  They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club.  They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a  group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and it’s history do not get forgotten.  They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.

And so the project Schalker Meile was born.  The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old  Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.

Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs.  The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club.  There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop nearby.

A bit further up you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974 when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’.  This is where the players used to drink.  A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat.  It’s now the home of a fan group called ‘Kuzorras grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans.  It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch.  Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally, you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn.  Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

If you want to see this for yourself take the 301 tram and get off at the Schalker Meile stop.

This is the same tram that will take you to the Veltins Arena, and on match days many fans stop off there for a drink and to meet friends before continuing to the game.

On match days the club puts on a bus tour to the area, including a visit to the old stadium.  A ticket will set you back 120 euros, but as well as the tour you get a meal, entrance to the Schalke museum and VIP seats at the stadium.

2.  Visit the Schalke Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the Veltins Arena, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff and is otherwise open all day.  The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia.  There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players.

However, the visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

3.  Wander around the city centre

If you or someone with you likes shopping, you will find everything you need a few minutes from the main station.

Find out more about Schalke 04 and German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction
Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction
Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction
Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

Going to watch Bayer 04 Leverkusen

The perfect introduction to German football

Bayer 04 Leverkusen - BayArena

A visit to the BayArena to watch Bayer 04 Leverkusen is the perfect starting point for people new to Germany and its football culture:

  • It is close to two major airports, next to a motorway and easy to reach by public transport.
  • It has a spectacular, modern stadium which is designed to bring every spectator close to the action and to maximise the atmosphere.
  • The club has one of the most family-friendly set-ups in the Bundesliga.
  • The team plays an exciting and highly entertaining brand of football.

Tickets

The simplest way to get tickets is to call the club’s ticket hotline (0049 214 5000 1904). There is always someone there who can speak English and who can advise you on the best places to sit. You could also use the Online Shop. This way you can choose exactly where to sit and you can use the Print@Home facility to print your ticket before you leave.

Getting to Leverkusen

Leverkusen is between Du?sseldorf and Cologne and you can get there easily and quickly by train from either city. For example, the journey from Du?sseldorf with the regional train (RE1 or RE5 ) takes about 15 minutes and there were at least three trains an hour to choose from.

 

Flights

If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about  £100.

Düsseldorf Airport

There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stansted, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has a station where you can catch a train to Leverkusen Mitte. The journey will take 30 minutes.

Cologne Bonn Airport

There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stansted, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. Take a train to Köln Deutz and then change for Leverkusen Mitte.

 

If you are not in a hurry

A more leisurely way to get here would be by train – take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels, change there for Cologne and then continue to Leverkusen. This costs about £150.

If you have even more time, National Express will take you from London to the region by bus for about £40 return. But be prepared for a very long journey.

Find out more about travel in Germany here.

 

Easy to find

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Getting to the BayArena is simplicity itself. You just follow the signs at the station for the Sportpark.

 

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Then you walk through a lovely park, following the signs for the BayArena, which will appear after about 15 minutes in the trees on your left.

A great place to watch football

Extensive modernisation and refurbishment in 2007 have turned the BayArena into one to the most attractive, comfortable and fan-friendly venues you are ever likely to visit. With a maximum capacity of 30,000, there are enough fans to generate a sense of occasion without it being overwhelming – and the closeness of all seats to the action makes sure everyone gets a good view and maximises the atmosphere.
Inside the stadium, there are all the usual food and drink outlets, a club shop, a creche and free WiFi. If you download the Live-App you can access live, real-time data about the game.

Bayer 04 Leverkusen - inside the BayArena

Visitors welcome

Bayer 04 Leverkusen has an open and welcoming ethos. Signs are in English as well as German and teams of helpers are on hand to offer advice.  The club has decorated the barriers dividing home and away fans to recognise the contribution visitors make to a good game.

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“No game is exciting without away fans.”

Bayer 04 Leverkusen - Kiosk inside the BayArena

 The BayArena Card

 

 

The only possible complication is that you can’t use cash inside the ground. Instead, you need to get a BayArena card from one of the kiosks once you arrive. You pay a 10 euro deposit and then put as much money as you want onto the card, which you then use for every purchase.
At the end of the game, you go back to the kiosk to get your deposit and any unspent money back.

Where to stay in Leverkusen

Leverkusen is so easy to get to from both Cologne and Du?sseldorf, so you might want to base yourself in one of these fine cities and do a spot of sightseeing, shopping or dining out before and after the football.

The Lindner is a 200 room hotel connected to the BayArena. A room will set you back about 125 euros per night. There are, however, cheaper alternatives.

There are, however, cheaper alternatives.

Find out more about German football

The cover of Discovering German Football
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors
The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book cover - Bayero4  Leverkusen: an introduction
Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction
Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction
Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football
Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction
Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction
Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction
Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet
Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction
Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet

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