Football Archives

Understanding FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 13, 2019 | Football trips, German History, Travel in Germany

FC Schalke 04: A different football experience

Some people think that going to the Veltins Arena to see Schalke 04 is just like any other German footballing experience.

You will have a ticket that did not require a second mortgage to buy. You will sit or stand amongst a passionate, partisan crowd. You will hopefully see some excellent football and you will have a couple of beers and a Bratwurst. In short, you will enjoy a typical Bundesliga game.

I believe that if you are willing to take your time and if you have a little background information, you can get much more from the day. Let me be your guide to a richer Schalke experience and let me help you better understand this club, its fans, history and culture.

A town built on coal

If you can, travel to Gelsenkirchen by train, and take a good look at the industrial and post-industrial landscape around this former mining town. You will probably pass though cities like Duisburg, Essen, Dortmund or Bochum – famous in their day for coal, steel, heavy industry.
A few winding towers indicate where some of the many mines used to be and isolated factory chimneys help you imagine what the skyline must have looked like 100 years ago.
Some large plants remain, but you will mainly see the reminders of what was once Germany’s industrial power house – empty plots of land that were once covered by huge factories, slag heaps converted into walking trails, abandoned railway buildings.

Get there early

Make sure you arrive at Gelsenkirchen station at least four hours before kick-off. Spend a bit of time in the station forecourt where hundreds of fans will have already gathered. Someone will have set up a sound system nearby which is blasting out classic club songs. People will be meeting friends, eating, drinking beer, talking about the game ahead.

A little further from the station you go down a set of steps to catch the 301 tram towards the Veltins Arena. But don’t go all the way there straight away. Make sure you get off at a stop called Schalker Meile.

The Schalker Meile

Schalke was the name of the working class district of Gelsenkirchen where the club was born. Players and fans came from this area of town. This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played. This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn was built. This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated and talked about.

Since those heady days, everything has changed. Thanks to de-industrialisation the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working-class community of old is no more. The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the shiny new Veltins Arena. But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots. They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club. They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and its history do not get forgotten. They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.
And so the project Schalker Meile was born. The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.
Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs. The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club. There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop next door.

A bit further on, you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Schalke 04 fan shop on the Schalker Meile

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’. This is where the players used to drink. A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat. Its now the home of a fan group called ‘ Kuzorra’s grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans. It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch. Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn. Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

On match days you will see hundreds of Schalke fans outside both pubs or just standing and talking ahead of the game. It is not difficult to imagine this street in the 1930s when Schalke were literally unbeatable at home, winning trophy after trophy for over a decade.

Don’t rush to get in the ground

You can get back on the 301 tram at the next stop. This will take you to the stadium.
Get off at the Veltins Arena stop and follow the flow of fans towards to ground. But don’t go thumb_P1020589_1024

inside yet. If you have followed my advice and arrived extra early it won’t be open anyway, but even if it is, follow the pathways round to the left and walk through the training pitches. The fact that these are just open on match days for fans to wander around is remarkable in itself – but just as impressive is what is available for them. At the far side of the pitches there is a fan shop, of course, but also a huge bar with a massive outside area serving beer and sausages. The message from the club is clear – we value and welcome our fans.

thumb_P1020593_1024

Directly opposite the shop there is a wagon used to transport coal donated by a local mine.

thumb_P1020592_1024

Next to it is the Kumpelkiste. This is a collection point for donations of food and clothing to be passed on to people in need. ‘Kumpel’ is slang for pal or workmate. For me the two objects reveal not only a sense of history, but also a feeling of solidarity.

The Schalke Museum

Now make your way back to the stadium and go inside. Your ticket will tell you the best gate to enter by. But don’t go to your seat yet Go and find the Schalke Museum, which opens two hours ahead of kick-off. This is plenty of time to take a look at the club’s history. Even if you don’t speak a word of German, half an hour wandering amongst the displays will give you a feel for Schalke’s roots and go some way to explaining why fans are so passionate and proud. You will learn about the club’s beginnings in 1904 and its early struggle for stability. You find out that Schalke didn’t lose a single home game from 1933 to 1942, were unbeaten in six of those seasons and appeared in 14 out of 18 national finals . There is, of course, plenty of detail about all the silverware the club as gathered. There are pictures of Schalke greats like Ernst Kuzorra and Fritz Szepan. You can enter a ‘sitting room’ packed with memorabilia. TV scree thumb_P1020613_1024

ns show footage of games from the early days until the present. And if you enjoy nothing else in the museum, I guarantee you will be blown away by the view of the stadium from here, and which justifies the 5 euro entrance fee on its own.

Something to eat

Next, I suggest you have a beer and something to eat. Like most German stadiums, prices are really affordable and you can take you drink with you to your seat.

One thing that’s a bit thumb_P1020697_1024 different at Schalke is that you can’t use cash. You have to go to one of the many kiosks and pick up and load a Knappenkarte. It then works just like a debit card – and if you don’t spend all the money on the card you can get it back before you leave.

Refreshed and fed, it’s time to go to your seat and enjoy the crowd. Notice how full the stands are and how much noise the fans are making well before kickoff. Don’t miss the pictures and names of great former players posted high up where everyone can see them.

An emotional moment

I think that what comes next is the most magical part of the Schalke experience. Just before the teams come out the entire crowd stands up to sing a slow, sad song called the Steigerlied (the miner’s song). It almost feels like you are in church. Everyone joins in and the emotion and respect are palpable. This song is a traditional mining song about a miner about to go down to the coalface. It’s been sung here, at other local grounds, and at political meetings for decades and is basically a tribute to the brave men who risked their lives and health every day to bring up the coal which powered German industry. These were the men who founded the club. This was the background of Schalke’s players and fans. To underline the message, black and white footage of miners at work is shown on the big screen. The song starts and ends with the words ‘Glück auf’, which is a traditional miners’ greeting recognised all over Germany. The words mean something like ‘Good luck and a safe return’, but the greeting evokes memories of harder times.
The message is clear : “Schalke might be the twelfth wealthiest football club in the world and play in one of Europe’s most modern stadiums but we have not forgotten our roots.”

The anthem

Then we get the Schalke Anthem : Blau und weiß wie lieb ich dich (blue and white how I love you). Again, everyone joins in noisily. Scarves and flags are waved and the emotion rises yet another notch. You can hear this song for yourself on YouTube.

A crowd in full voice

By now the players are out and the game will begin. Enjoy the sights and sounds of a 61,000 crowd in full voice. Notice the huge standing area behind one of the goals.
In the UK, there are quite often periods of quiet in a game. Crowds tend to shout and sing in response to the action on the pitch. In Germany this is always different – the ultras at the home end, choreographed and directed by people at the front with megaphones, make a noise from start to finish. The difference at Schalke is that there is noise for the entire game from all sides of the ground.

Songs and chants

If Schalke score the crowd will sing
Ein Leben lang
Blau und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
A lifetime long
Blue and white a lifetime long …

You might also hear them singing :
FC Schalke mein verein
Ich steh immer für dich ein
Ob du gewinnst oder verlierst
Ich stehe immer hinter dir
FC Schalke my club
I will always stand up for you
Whether you win or lose
I will always be behind you

Don’t hurry home

Hopefully you will see lots of good football, an exciting game and a few goals. At the end of the game, don’t rush off. There’s a bit of a crush to get back on the tram to town, and the first trains out of Gelsenkirchen can be a bit crowded. So stay in your seat and watch the players come and thank the fans. Notice how many fans are still in the stands.
Why not then hang around the stadium for a while, have something to eat and drink along with the thousands of others who are still there.

Come and see for yourelf

I hope that this short article has inspired you come to the Veltins Arena and enjoy the full Schalke experience in person. I guarantee that you will not just attend an exciting sporting event. You will also witness and celebration of history, community and shared values.

Find out more about German football

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Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction

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Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction

Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction

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Books about German football

Going to watch FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 10, 2019 | Bundesliga, Football trips, Travel in Germany

Based in Gelsenkirchen in the middle of Germany’s industrial powerhouse, the Ruhrgebiet, Schalke 04 is one of the biggest, oldest and best-known clubs in the Bundesliga. It is said to be the 12^th richest football club in the world.

The nickname, the Royal Blues, comes from Schalke’s colours – but they were originally known as “die Knappen’, which is a slang word for miners because so many players and fans came from a mining background.

A visit to the Veltins Arena to watch a game is a truly memorable experience.

Tickets for Schalke 04

Schalke 04 games are regularly sold out, so it’s a really good idea to buy tickets before you come to Germany. This will also save you money as your ticket entitles you to free match day travel to and from the ground on local transport.

These are the best ways to get hold of tickets:

Use the online ticket shop. Although everything is in German, the ticket portal is easy to use.
Call the ticket hotline (0039 180 622 1904). There will always be someone who can speak to you in English and advise you on the best place to sit. There is also a ticket standby service where might be able to get hold of a returned ticket.
Send an email to the club explaining what you want (kundenseervice@schalke04.de).

Getting to Gelsenkirchen

Gelsenkirchen is right in the middle of the Ruhrgebiet, which was once Germany’s industrial heartland and is still Europe’s largest metropolis. This makes it very straightforward to get to from outside Germany. It is within easy reach of four airports and belongs to a reliable, cheap and fully integrated regional public transport system.

If you are coming over for a short visit, flying is the best option, and you can usually get a return flight for about £100.

Düsseldorf Airport

There are flights here from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has a station where you can catch a direct train to Gelsenkirchen. It will take about 35 minutes to get there.

Weeze Airport

There are flights here from London Stanstead, London Luton and Edinburgh. Regular shuttle buses take you to Dortmund which is also about 35 minutes by train from Gelsenkirchen.

Cologne Bonn Airport.

There are flights here from London Heathrow, London Stanstead, Manchester and Edinburgh and a station right in the middle of the airport. It’s a bit further away and the journey is slightly more complicated because you have to change trains. If you change at Düsseldorf the journey will take about two hours.

A more leisurely way to get here would be by train – take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels, change there for Cologne and then continue to Gelsenkirchen. This costs about £150.

If you are not in a hurry, National Express will take you from London to the region by bus for about £40 return. But be prepared for a very long journey!

Gelsenkirchen is in the middle of an integrated public transport system managed by an organisation called VRR. You can use VRR tickets on any regional and local train, tram, underground and bus across the entire network. The VRR website explains in English how it all works.

And remember – on match days your ticket entitles you to free travel to and from the ground across the entire region.

Where to stay in Gelsenkirchen

The big advantage of staying in Gelsenkirchen is that you can enjoy the build-up to the game, don’t need to rush off after the final whistle and you can mix with Schalke fans in the evening. There are plenty of hotels in Gelsenkirchen. Here are a few suggestions:

Ibis Styles Hotel – right opposite the station.
The Ibis Gelsenkirchen is 100 yards from the station and old town.
The Maritim Hotel
The Courtyard by Marriott is within walking distance of the Veltins Arena.
The Arena hotel is right next to the stadium.

For anyone looking for a wider choice of things to do and places to go before and after the football, Dortmund is only 35 minutes away by train. There are hotels there to match every budget. The Dortmund Tourist Information Office provides advice and a booking facility here.

Getting to the Veltins Arena

Getting to the Veltins Arena from the city centre is very straightforward. You go out of the main station, down some steps to the underground and catch tram 302. Your stop is conveniently called ‘Veltins Arena’ and your destination is about five minutes away.

Inside the Veltins Arena

The Veltins Arena is without a doubt one of the finest stadiums in the world.

It opened in 2001 and quickly established itself as a first class entertainment venue. Fans have flocked here to see top music acts like U2, Robbie Wiliiams and Bruce Springstein, sporting events such as the 2010 World Ice Hockey Championships and boxing – as well, of course, as football.

It can accommodate 61,973 football fans. There are 16,307 standing places, giving the club the second largest standing area in the Bundesliga. There is a retractable roof and withdrawable pitch and all seats give a fantastic view of the action. As you would expect, facilities and food outlets are also of a very high standard.

Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the stadium, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff. The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia. There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players. The visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

Eating and drinking

You will not go hungry or thirsty at the Veltins Arena. There are 15 small restaurants, 50 grilling stations and 35 cafes – all connected by a 5km long beer pipe. On a typical match day they will sell 14,000 sausages, 43,000 rolls, 40,000 litres of drink.)

The stadium stands on its own and out of town, so you would think that there would not be much to do before the game. But the club has gone to great lengths to cater for fans who arrive early. There are kiosks selling food and drink on all the walkways to the ground. Beyond the training grounds – which are open to the public – there is a huge fan shop and a bar/restaurant. As a result, you are likely to see thousands of fans in the area two or three hours ahead of kickoff.

There is a cashless payment system throughout the arena. While this is extremely convenient for regular fans and reduces delays when buying food and drink, it can be a bit daunting for the one-off visitor from overseas. Using the system, however, is very straightforward. When you get inside, go to one of the countless kiosks issuing ‘Knappenkarten’. The card is free and you can load on as much money as you are likely to spend. When you want to buy something you hand over your card and then say what you want. They will then take the cost from your card. If you don’t spend all your money you can get a refund before you leave.

A sense of history

Before every game the entire stadium stands and sings along to the miners’ anthem ‘das Steigerlied’. At the same time, black and white footage of mining scenes is shown on the big screen. This moving tribute to those who have gone before will definitely give you goosebumps. The song dates back to the 16th century and is sung in mining areas all over Germany, as well as at political rallies. It’s about miners preparing for a long hard shift and hoping to get back to the surface safely. It starts and ends with the traditional miners’ greeting of ‘Glück auf’.

After the game

Going home is not quite a simple as arriving. Although extra trams and buses are laid on, moving 60,000 people is time-consuming and so it can take you a while to get back to the town centre. Similarly, Gelsenkirchen station and departing trains can be really crowded for a while after games.

My advice would be not to rush home. If you can, stay for a drink or two after the game. Stop off for something to eat in the city centre before catching your train.

Three things to do in Gelsenkirchen

1. Walk along the Schalker Meile

Schalke 04 was one of the first truly working class football clubs. Established in the early years of the 20th century, its players and fans came from the same town – Gelsenkirchen – and many from the Schalke district itself. This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played. This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn – was built. This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated.

Since those heady days, everything has changed. Thanks to de-industrialisation, the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working class community of old is no more. The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the Veltins Arena. But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots. They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club. They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and it’s history do not get forgotten. They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.

And so the project Schalker Meile was born. The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.

Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs. The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club. There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop nearby.

A bit further up you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974 when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’. This is where the players used to drink. A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat. It’s now the home of a fan group called ‘Kuzorras grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans. It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch. Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally, you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn. Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

If you want to see this for yourself take the 301 tram and get off at the Schalker Meile stop.

This is the same tram that will take you to the Veltins Arena, and on match days many fans stop off there for a drink and to meet friends before continuing to the game.

On match days the club puts on a bus tour to the area, including a visit to the old stadium. A ticket will set you back 120 euros, but as well as the tour you get a meal, entrance to the Schalke museum and VIP seats at the stadium.

2. Visit the Schalke Museum

The Schalke Museum, which is just inside the Veltins Arena, opens on match days two hours ahead of kickoff and is otherwise open all day. The exhibition describes the Schalke story through pictures, text and memorabilia. There are film extracts covering Schalke’s greatest moments and anecdotes about its greatest players.

However, the visit is worth the 5 euros entry fee just for the breathtaking view of the stadium from one of the best vantage points.

3. Wander around the city centre

If you or someone with you likes shopping, you will find everything you need a few minutes from the main station.

Find out more about Schalke 04 and German football

Books about German football

Going to watch VfL Osnabrück

by John Alder | Nov 27, 2018 | 3 Liga, Football trips

VfL Osnabrück: A traditional club, a proper ground and an electric atmosphere

Fans of VfL Osnabrück waving flags before a match

Osnabrück is in the northwest of Germany, not far from the border with the Netherlands. It is 60 miles to the west of Hannover and about 80 miles north of Dortmund. This historic city of 170,000 inhabitants has a lovely old town, a fully pedestrianised centre and is surrounded by beautiful countryside. And the Stadion an der Bremer Brücke, home to VfL Osnabrück, is one of the best places to experience German football beyond the Bundesliga.

The club’s full name is Verein für Leibesübungen von 1899 e.V. Osnabrück. Its story started in 1899 when a number of “wild” clubs came together to become Fußball Club 1899 Osnabrück. After a complicated series of mergers, splits and name changes, the current name first appeared in 1925.

After the war, Osnabrück was placed in Oberliga Nord where it did well in a league which also contained Hamburger SV, Werder Bremen, and FC St Pauli. When the Bundesliga was formed in 1963, VfL Osnabrück joined the second tier Regionalliga Nord and then the 2. Bundesliga. Despite coming close on several occasions, the club was never able to gain promotion to the Bundesliga.

In 2009 VfL Osnabrück was relegated to the 3. Liga where it has remained for the last nine seasons. It has a large, loyal and hugely passionate fanbase. Average attendance so far this season is over 10,000.

Tickets

There is an online shop and you can also order tickets by phone (49180301899) and at the Tourist Information Office on Bierstraße in the town centre. There are two Fan Shops – one at the stadium and one on Krahnstraße. They also sell tickets. A standing ticket costs 11 and a seat between 25 and 29 euros.

Getting to Osnabrück

From Hannover

There are direct flights to Hannover airport from London Heathrow, Stansted and City, Birmingham, and Manchester airports. A direct flight will cost about £150 return and take about 90 minutes. The S5 train (S-Bahn) will take you from the airport (Terminal C) to the city centre in 18 minutes. Trains run every 30 minutes throughout the day.

There are regular trains to Osnabrück from Hannover and the journey will take just over an hour. The cheapest way to travel is to get a Niedersachsen-Ticket, which costs 23 euros for one person and an extra four euros for each additional traveller up to five. You can use it anywhere in Lower Saxony and to the other places on this map. It is valid on regional trains, buses, trams and underground – but not on IC of EC trains.

From Düsseldorf

There are flights to Düsseldorf airport from Birmingham, London Stanstead, London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow and Newcastle. The airport has its own station where you can catch a train to Osnabrück. If you want to spend a bit of time in Düsseldorf first, the S1 train will transport you from the terminal to Düsseldorf central station in about ten minutes.

It will take you about two and a half hours to get to Osnabrück from Düssdeldorf, with one change. Plan your journey on the VRR website.

There are also direct InterCity trains to and from Osnabrück. You get there a bit sooner but pay a bit more. If you decide to travel this way you can book in advance either with Loco2 or Deutsche Bahn.

If you want to find out more about travel in Germany take a look at this article: Getting there: travel in Germany.

Getting to the ground

Bus numbers 91, 92, 31, 32, 33, 81, 82 will all take you from the station to the Bremer Brücke.

You can also get there on foot in about 30 minutes. Turn right when you come out of the station and head towards Eisenbahnstrasse. Almost straight away you come to some steps on your right which will take you to a footbridge over the railway lines. On the other side go straight ahead onto An der Humboldsbrücke until you drop down to Buersche Strasse. Cross this road and climb some steps into Humboldtstraße. Follow this road until you reach Bohmter Straße. Turn right and go straight ahead. You will soon see the ground on your right.

Inside the Stadion an der Bremer Brücke

The Bremer Brücke first opened in 1931, but it has been refurbished a number of times and thanks to a recent expansion now has a capacity of 16,667 with 10,475 standing places. Because it has been refurbished rather than rebuilt, it feels like a ‘proper’ football ground.

You are close to the action wherever you choose to stand or sit and you get a good view from all corners of the stadium. The hardcore fans stand behind the goal in the Ostkurve, but there is singing and chanting from all sides of the ground.

Find out more about German football

Books about German football

Making the most of your football trip: Starting from Berlin

by John Alder | Oct 17, 2018 | Berlin football, Football trips, Travel in Germany

Why plan a football trip starting from Berlin?

Berlin is one of the most exciting cities in Europe. As you would expect of the capital city of Europe’s most prosperous country, it is full of shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and nightclubs. At every turn, you come across historic buildings and famous street names.

And, of course, Berlin is the perfect base for a football visit.

Enough for a weekend of football

There are enough clubs in Berlin for you to fill an entire weekend without even leaving the city.

Visit Hertha Berlin for the excitement and drama of a top Bundesliga fixture in one of Europe’s biggest stadiums.

The Stadion an der alten Försterei, home to Union Berlin, is one of the most atmospheric grounds you will ever come across.

To experience Berlin football like a local you should take a look at fourth division sides BFC Dynamo Berlin, Berliner AK 07, Viktoria 1889 Berlin and Tennis Berlin.

Much to explore beyond Berlin as well

If you are prepared to travel there are several fascinating clubs within easy reach.

Bundesliga clubs

RB Leipzig

2. Bundesliga clubs

3. Liga clubs

First a few practical details

Getting to Berlin

Plane

Berlin has two international airports.

Berlin-Tegel is to the north-west of the city and Berlin-Schönefeld to the south-east. The two airports run a combined website, which will give you a good idea of where you can fly from.

Getting into town is simple:

From Tegel, bus 128 will take you to “Kurt-Schumacher-Platz” where you can take the U6 underground into the city centre. he S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the wider city transport system. A taxi will cost about 25 euros.
The S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the wider city transport system. A taxi will cost about 40 euros.

Train

You can get to Berlin by train from most major German cities. You need to be aware, however, that it will be a long journey from the west of the country.

Getting around in Berlin

Berlin has a superb public transport system, and this is definitely the best way to get around. Buses, local trains, trams and underground are all integrated into one network where you can use the same ticket.

A day ticket for one person costs 7 euros, and for 19.90 euros up to five people can travel on a group day ticket.

There is an excellent section on the city website, which shows routes and explains in English how the ticketing system works.

Save money with the Berlin WelcomeCard

Many visitors buy the Berlin WelcomeCard, which entitles you to free use public transport in the city centre, reduced entrance into many tourist attractions and special offers in a range of restaurants and shops.

Getting around the region

If you decide to visit clubs beyond Berlin you will probably need to travel by train. You can plan trips and order e-tickets at the Deutsche Bahn website.

Another very helpful place to organise your travel is Loco2.

Save money with the Berlin-Brandenburg ticket

Berlin is in the middle of the region of Brandenburg. Look out for the Berlin-Brandenburg rail ticket. This costs 29 euros for a group of up to 5 travellers. It entitles you to free travel for a day on RE, RB, S and RS trains all over the region. You can also use it on public transport.

The clubs you could visit

Bundesliga clubs

Hertha Berlin

Hertha Berlin was formed in 1892. Its full name is Hertha Berliner Sport-Club von 1892. The club was one of the founder members of the Deutscher Fussball Bund (DFB), which was formed in 1900, and of the Bundesliga, which was founded in 1963.

Stadium

Since 1963 Hertha have played in the Olympiastadion, which was originally built for the 1936 Olympics.
It has the largest permanent seating capacity in Germany (74,475) and is the second largest stadium in the country. (The largest is Dortmund’s Signal Iduna Park)
Despite its age, the stadium has had several major renovations and now has a partial roof.
The German national team plays here and it hosted six matches in the 2006 world cup. It is also used for cup finals, including the 2015 Champions League final.
There is a cashless payment system inside the ground: you buy a card which is charged with 10 euros and use it to buy food and drink. If you need more you can top it up at machines and if you don’t spend it all you can get a refund after the game.

Tickets

There is an online ticket shop.
You can also order tickets by phone (+49 (0)1806 – 51 53 01) or email via a contact form on the website.

Directions

The club website has really clear and simple directions (in English).
You can get all the way to the stadium by underground (U2), train (S5) and bus (M49 and 218)

Website

https://www.herthabsc.de/en/

RBLeipzig

In 2008 energy drink manufacturer Red Bull purchased the playing rights of SSV Markranstädt, a little known fifth division club close to Leipzig. This was the first step in establishing a brand new football club called Rasenballsport Leipzig (RB Leipzig) in May 2009. This new club, formally launched in May 2009, had the ambition of gaining promotion to the Bundesliga within eight years.
Although RB Leipzig began playing in the old Markrandstädt stadium in the Oberliga, plans were already in place to build a new stadium in Leipzig.
This was the beginning of a remarkable story. The Red Bulls quickly gained promotion into the Regionalliga and then rose through the divisions before finally gaining promotion to the Bundesliga at the end of the 2015/16 season.

It is an understatement to say that RB Leipzig is a controversial club. For some, it is a modern success story. They argue that astute management on and off the pitch, an exciting, an entertaining brand of football and first-class youth academy make it the most likely club to eventually break the dominance of Bayern München.
For others, it is a total betrayal of German football’s values. These people consider RB Leipzig to be a marketing tool and believe the owners are simply buying success. They believe the club is bypassing rules designed to ensure fans retain ownership of their clubs and presents a risk to the values and traditions that make German football so special.
There have been fan boycotts, protests and demonstrations – but the club has continued its steady, inexorable march through the leagues. The fanbase has grown each year and it looks like it is here to stay.

Stadium

Since 2010 RB Leipzig has played in the Red Bull Arena. It is a thoroughly modern stadium with 42,959 seats and all the amenities you could expect or need.

Tickets

Ticket prices vary depending on the opponent. The cheapest start at 20,00 euros and the most expensive cost 70 euros. There is an online shop, and you can also get tickets at the ground.

Directions

You can get to Leipzig by train from Berlin in about 75 to 90 minutes. But it’s not cheap. If you book in advance (on Loco2, for example – (https://loco2.com/en) a return ticket will cost 39.80 euros.

You can walk from the main station to the ground in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, trams 3, 7, 15 will take you there – your stop is called ‘Sportforum’

2 Bundesliga

You can enjoy exciting games and have great experiences in the 2 Bundesliga – the second tier of German football. The crowds might be a bit smaller than in the top tier, but the atmosphere will be just as thrilling. Tickets are cheaper and much easier to get hold of. And you will get to visit some interesting and unusual places.

Union Berlin

The other big club in Berlin is 1 FC Union Berlin, which can trace its roots back to 1906. Under its first name of SC Union 06 Oberschöneweide, it was one of the top German teams throughout the early years of the 20th century.
After the war, all sporting organisations were dissolved, but the club reformed as SG Oberschöneweide in 1945.

Its history through the Cold War period (1945 to 1989) mirrored the split in the country. There was a team called Sport-Club Union 06 Berlin in the Western half of the city and a team called Union Oberschöneweide in the East of the city. This team went through a number of name changes, before emerging as 1 FC Union Berlin in 1966.
After German reunification in 1990, the club did well on the field but suffered from massive financial problems.
Success in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s was followed by a decline through the leagues and by 2005 they found themselves in the fourth tier of German football.
Since 2008 Union Berlin’s fortuned have improved and they now play in the 2 Bundesliga.

Fans

Union Berlin fans are renowned for their passionate support for their club and the stadium is famous for its atmosphere
In 2008 they completely renovated the stadium themselves working 140,000 hours to create a wonderful football-only stadium. Although it is big enough to hold 21,717 spectators, there are only 3807 seats.
During the 2014 world cup, fans brought sofas to the ground to create a ‘living room’ where they watched games on a big screen.
One of Union’s most famous fans is the singer Nina Hagen whose song ‘Eiserne Union’ (Iron Union) is the club anthem.

Stadium

The stadium is called Stadion an der alten Försterei, which means Stadium at the Old Forester’s House. Because it is built purely for football the fans are very close to the pitch. This, the high number of standing places and the passion of the Union fans leads to a fantastic atmosphere.

Tickets

You can expect to pay between 11 and 13 euros for standing ticket. There is an online ticket shop. The club website has a long list of places in town which sell tickets – and of course, you can get them at the ticket office at the stadium (open from 11- 6 Monday to Friday 11 – 8 on Thursdays and on match days)

Directions

The easiest way to get to the ground is by public transport.
First of all, you need to get to Ostkreuz station (S5 or S7 depending on where you start from)
Then you get the S3 towards Erkner. You get off at Köpenick – and then it’s a fifteen-minute walk.

Website

https://www.fc-union-berlin.de/en/

Dynamo Dresden

The beautiful city of Dresden in 120 miles to the south of Berlin.

It was almost completely flattened by intense bombing raids in the final stages of World War 2. It has been painstakingly and expensively restored, particularly since German reunification in 1991, and is now one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, worth a visit in its own right. Dresden is also home to Dynamo Dresden.

Although football was played in Dresden throughout the 20th century, SG Dynamo Dresden was established in 1954. During the 1970s and 1980s, the club was one of the dominant teams in East Germany, winning the league seven times and the cup six times. Dynamo also competed frequently in Europe, progressing as far as the semi-final of the UEFA Cup in 1989. After reunification Dresden joined the Bundesliga, and although the club maintained first division status for four years, like many former GDR teams it struggled financially and on the pitch. Many of the best players moved west, attracted by bigger clubs and higher pay. As a result, Dynamo dropped through the divisions and into the amateur Regionalliga in 1995. And the fall continued, and by 2000 the club had fallen as far as the fourth division.

Since then the club’s fortunes have improved and they have successfully fought their way back as far as the 2 Bundesliga.

Fans

Despite mixed fortunes on the pitch, Dynamo Dresden has one of the most loyal and fanatical fan bases in the country. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 28,071.

Stadium

The Rudolph-Harbig-Stadion has a capacity of 32,066, with 9,000 standing places. The 25,000 fans who typically come to a game and the particular design of the stadium make it one of the loudest and most atmospheric grounds in Germany.

Tickets

You can buy tickets at the online shop. They cost between 14 euros to stand and 37 euros for the most expensive seats.

Directions

The EuroCity will get you from Berlin to Dresden in just under two hours. If you book in advance you can pay as little as 19.90 each way (plus 6 euros if you want to reserve a seat)

The ground is 20 minutes walk from the central station. You can also get there by public transport, but how you travel to the ground is determined by the entrance on your ticket. If you are entering via Lennestraße you take the number 10 or 13 tram and get off at “Großer Garten”, or number 9 or 11 trams and get off at “Lenneplatz”. If you are entering via Blüherstraße you should take the number 1, 2, 4, or 12 tram and get off at “Deutsches Hygienemuseum”.

Website

http://www.dynamo-dresden.de/saison.html

1 FC Magdeburg

Magdeburg is about 95 miles to the west of Berlin. It is home to 1 FC Magdeburg, which was founded in 1965. Alongside Dynamo Dresden Magdeburg was one of the top teams in the former East Germany, playing all but one season in the top division. It won the league three times and the cup seven times and was the only East German club to win the UEFA Cup in 1973. After 1991 Magdeburg struggled to adapt to life in a united Germany and for a time the club dropped out of the professional leagues altogether. In recent years, however, Magdeburg have fought their way back. They ended the 2017/18 season as 3. Liga champions and currently play in 2 Bundesliga.

Stadium

The MDCC-Arena, which opened in 2006, has 25,500 places. There are 21,900 seats and 3,600 standing places.

Fans

The club has a large and loyal fanbase. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 18,231 – by far the best in the league – and if you come to watch a game you will enjoy a great atmosphere.

Tickets

Apart from high profile games (Köln, Hamburg, Dresden, Union Berlin), you should be able to get a ticket on the day. You can order tickets in advance at the Online Ticket Shop or by phone (+49(0)1806991160). There is also a contact form on the club website. Prices range from 14.50 euros to 25.50 euros.

Directions

The direct train from Berlin to Magdeburg takes 1 hour 40 minutes. You then catch the number 6 tram from the station and get off at “Brandenburger Straße”.

Website

http://www.fc-magdeburg.de/

3. Liga

Whenever I am in Germany, I try to take in at least one 3. Liga game before or after a Bundesliga encounter. It’s a very different experience, but I have never been disappointed.

The crowds are smaller. This makes it easier to get a ticket. For most games at most clubs, you can pay on the day. The smaller scale means stewards and officials are more relaxed, helpful and welcoming. And of course, you don’t have to wait for as long for food and drink or waste half-time queuing for the toilets. Not having to use public transport with 50,000 others makes arriving and leaving much simpler.

Many 3. Liga grounds are either new or recently refurbished, so facilities are usually excellent. Food and drink is cheaper and often of better quality than in bigger outfits. Most stadiums have more standing places and you feel much more involved.

These clubs are within range of Berlin.

Carl Zeiss Jena

About 150 miles south-west of Berlin is the city of Jena, home to 3. Liga club Carl Zeiss Jena. Founded in 1903 by workers at the Carl Zeiss optics factory, this is one of Germany’s oldest clubs. It achieved considerable success at a local and regional level in the first half of the 20th century.

After the war, the club became one of the top teams in East Germany, winning the DDR Championship three times and the Cup four times. In 1981Jena reached the final of the of the European Cup Winners’ Cup.

After German reunification, Jena was placed in the 2 Bundesliga. Despite finishing second in 1992, the club struggled both on and off the pitch – often dropping into the third and fourth divisions, and at times coming close to bankruptcy.

Carl Zeiss Jena won promotion back into the 3. Liga in 2017, beating Viktoria Köln in the relegation playoffs.

Stadium

The Ernst-Abbe-Sportfeld has a capacity of 12,990, with 6,540 seats. The stadium was built in 1922 and is named after a local entrepreneur. It has undergone several improvements over the years, the most recent being the construction of a new stand in 1997.

Tickets

Standing places cost between 10 and 12 euros and seats cost between 24 and 28 euros, depending on the opposition. You can buy your tickets at the club, at the online ticket shop (https://www.etix.com/ticket/v/457/fc-carl-zeiss-jena?cobrand=jena). Average attendance in 2017/18 was 5,417, so unless they are playing local rivals you should be able to get tickets on the day or at one of several outlets in town. For more details see the club website.

Directions

You can get to Jena by train from Berlin in just under three hours. You need to change at Leipzig. If you book in advance tickets will cost about55 euros, including seat reservations. When you arrive at Jena Saal station you should walk towards the town centre and catch the 1, 4 or 35 tram. This will take you directly to the stadium.

Hallescher FC

Halle is just over 100 miles to the south west of Berlin. There are regular Inter-City-Express trains from Berlin and the journey will take just over an hour. If you book in advance tickets will cost about £40, including seat reservations. The local club, Hallescher FC, can trace its roots right back to the beginning of the last century, and the founding of a football club called Hallescher Fussball-Club Wacker 1900. This club was very successful in the 1910s 1920s and 1930s.

Along with all German football clubs, Wacker was dissolved after the war but by 1949 a new club – ZSG Union Halle had emerged and became one of the founder members of the East German Oberliga. It was to undergo several name changes in the coming years before settling on FC Chemie Halle (the name still used by many supporters).

After German reunification in 1990, the club joined the 2 Bundesliga as Hallescher FC. Unfortunately, like many East German sides, Halle lost several of its best players to wealthier West German clubs and struggled in the newly merged league system. Relegation at the end of the first season marked the start of a decline through the leagues. By 1995 Hallescher FC found reached the fifth tier of German football.

Since then the club’s fortunes have improved steadily and it was promoted to the 3 Liga in 2012, where it has remained for the last five years.

Stadium

The Erdgas Sportpark opened in 2011. It has a capacity of 15,057, with 6,155 seats and 8,850 standing places

Tickets

A standing ticket costs between 9 and 11 and a seat between 12 and 23 euros. There is an online ticket shop, and you can also order tickets by phone(49180651 53 62 or email (kundenservice-hallescher-fc@eventim.de).

Directions

Any tram going from “Markt” towards “Rennischer Platz” will take you to the stadium. Get out at Böllberger Weg” or “Kantstraße”.

Website

http://www.hallescherfc.de/

Energie Cottbus

Cottbus is about 80 miles from Berlin, not far from the border with Poland. The local club, Energie Cottbus was founded in 1963, but the club has roots right back to a team founded by miners in 1919.

The club began life after German reunification in the 3. Liga. Relegation after six seasons began a 17-year stint between 1997 and 2014 of floating between the second and first divisions. Relegation in 2014 to the 3. Liga was followed by a further relegation in 2016 to the Regionalliga Nordost. Two years later they gained promotion back to the third division.

Stadium

The club describes Stadion der Freundschaft – Friendship Stadium – as an ‘atmospheric jewel with English flair’. I am not sure exactly what they mean, but it is a comfortable and thoroughly modern ground with a capacity 22,528, including 10,945 seats. It is designed to bring fans as close as possible to the action on the pitch and to make sure everyone gets a good view.

Tickets

You can get tickets from the Online Shop (https://www.etix.com/ticket/v/2763/fc-energie-cottbus-stadion-der-freundschaft?cobrand=cottbus) for between 11 and 21 euros.

Directions

You can travel from Berlin to Cottbus by regional train. A ticket will cost 14.50 euros each way and the journey will take just under 90 minutes.

You can walk to the ground from the main station in about 10 minutes, following Vetschauer Straße and Görlitzer Gasse until you can see the floodlights.

Regionalliga Nordost

The fourth tier of German football is divided into regional leagues (Regionalligen). The reserve squads of Bundesliga teams are allowed to compete at this level but there are also lots of smaller clubs.

Crowds are definitely smaller, but you will get to experience German football from a local perspective. These are the Regionalliga clubs in Berlin.

BFC Dynamo Berlin

The club was founded in the 1950s as Dynamo Berlin and had strong links to the East German security police (the hated Stasi) and their boss Erich Mielke. This connection ensured the club always got the best players and many believed that referees were ‘persuaded’ to treat them favourably. As a result, the club enjoyed considerable success in the 1970s and 1980s. It won the league ten times and the DDR Cup 3 times and played 60 games in European competitions. Dynamo players were regularly picked to play for the East German national side. But it was the also most unpopular team in the DDR and booing Dynamo was a relatively safe way to express anger against the communist regime. After reunification, a name change to FC Berlin did little to improve the club’s image or popularity. In 1999 members voted to change the name back to BFC Dynamo Berlin, hoping this would remind people of past triumphs and bring back good times. Unfortunately, beset by financial troubles the club has struggled to remain in business, never mind thrive, and has floated between the fourth and fifth tiers of German football.

Fans

For a time in the 1990s Dynamo fans enjoyed the dubious reputation of having the worst hooligans in Germany in their midst, and the club became a magnet for right-wing extremists. Things have calmed down greatly in recent years.

Stadium

BFC Dynamo play at the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark, which is to the north of the city. It has the capacity to fit in 19,708 fans, but attendance is rarely above 2,000. If the weather looks doubtful, make sure you have protection against the rain as there is no roofing.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 12 and 18 euros. You will be able to pay at the gate.

Directions

The M10 tram stops directly outside the ground.You can also catch the U8 underground train to Bernauer Straße and walk for five minutes.

Viktoria 1889 Berlin

Viktoria Berlin was formed in 2013, following the merger of BFC Viktoria 1889 and Lichterfelder FC Berlin.

Stadium

The club plays at the Stadion Lichterfelde, which has a capacity of 4,300, with 1,800 seats (800 covered). Average attendance in 2017/18 was 469.

Directions

The simplest way to get to the ground is to take a regional train (RE3, RE4 or RE5) to Lichterfelde Ost station and walk. Leave by the Jungfernstieg exit. Turn right and walk 500 meters to Boothstraße. Then go 650 meters to Ostpreußendamm and then turn right. The walk will take about 15 minutes.

Berliner AK

Berliner AK was founded in 1906 in the working class district of Wedding. Since then the club has undergone several mergers and name changes, before joining forces with ethnically Turkish sides and adopting the name Berlin Ankaraspor Kulübü 07. This club had strong links with Ankoraspor, a side in the Turkish first division, and the idea was that it would be a way of spotting and developing talent. Unfortunately, the scheme failed and the club almost went out of business – but not before the older members left and the traditional colours of red and white were changed to blue and white (the colours of Ankoraspor). Then the Turkish side withdrew support and the club came close to going under. Fortunately, it was able to stabilise and re-group and Berliner AK won promotion to Regionalliga Nordost in 2012. Earlier the same year the club entered the record books by beating Bundesliga side Hoffenheim 4:0 in the first round of the cup – the biggest ever cup victory over a Bundesliga club by a non-league side.

Stadium

BAK 07 play at the Poststadion. This venerable stadium was built between 1926 and 1929 and in the 1930s was one of the most important football venues in Germany – the scene of dramatic internationals and big championship games. For example, in 1930 Germany came from behind to draw 3:3 against England. In 1936 Germany lost 2:0 to Norway in front of 55,000 fans, including Adolf Hitler. Germany’s subsequent elimination from the Olympic games led to the dismissal of coach Otto Nerz and the appointment of Sepp Herberger – who was to lead Germany to World Cup victory in 1954. Because of its illustrious history, the stadium enjoys listed building status.

Today it has a capacity of 10,000. There are 2,500 seats, almost all of which are covered. Average attendance in 2017/18 was 431.

Tickets

Tickets cost between 8 and 10 euros.

Directions

The stadium is a ten minutes walk from Berlin’s central station.

Regionalliga Nordost

Tennis Berlin

Tennis Berlin is one of the most intriguing clubs I have come across. Its roots go right back to 1902 and its first name was Berliner-Tennis und Ping-Pong Gesellschaft Borussia. At that time lots of sports clubs considered in patriotic to include the word Borussia, which is a Latin version of Prussia, in their name. A year later the club added football to the other sports offered and it was soon a keen rival to that other venerable Berlin club, Hertha BSC. After a name change to Berliner Tennis Club Borussia in 1913 the club continued to do well at local and regional level.

Although Tennis Berlin – nicknamed TeBe – established itself as Berlin’s top side in the 1950s, the club did not perform well enough to join the Bundesliga in 1963. It remained in the second division for all but two years of the 1960s and 1970s. TeBe then dropped down a league in the 1980s.

Like many clubs in Berlin TeBe has frequently been plagued by financial problems and at time struggled to stay in business. Towards the end of the 1990s a new sponsor pumped money into the club, enabling the purchase of more expensive players and funding a brief return to the 2 Bundesliga. Sadly this was not a long term recipe for success and the club went bankrupt in 2000. This resulted in relegation to the third tier and the next year TeBe fell to the fourth division.

The club took on its current name – Tennis Borussia Berlin – in 2000 and has remained in the lower divisions since then. The club currently plays in 5th tier Oberliga Nord and finished second in 2017-18.

Fans

TeBe fans are special. Despite (or perhaps because of) the roller-coaster journey of recent years, they are exceptionally loyal and passionate. They are closely involved in the running of the club. For example, fans produce the match day programme and choose the music for the pre-match entertainment.

The club website proudly describes fans’ “continued appreciation of Jewish traditions and active opposition to anti-semitism, racism and homophobia.”

Tennis Borussia have fans right across Germany and beyond and if you do decide to come to the Mommsenstadion you will join a surprisingly large crowd for this level of football.

Stadium

The Mommsenstadion has a capacity of 11,500, with 1,800 covered seats.

Directions

Take the S3 or S9 train towards Spandau and get out at Messe Süd. It’s then a short walk to the ground.

Find out more about German football

Are you planning a football trip to Germany?

This short guide will help you plan your trip and decide which clubs to visit. There is also key information on every club in the top three divisions as well as links to the best books, websites, blogs and podcasts.

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It doesn’t have to be Dortmund

by John Alder | Sep 14, 2018 | Football trips

Borussia Dortmund - one of several great German football clubs

For the last couple of years the British sporting media has reported at length about the numbers of fans coming to watch football in Germany. They are attracted by the prospect of experiencing the electric atmosphere of a Bundesliga game and modern grounds.

There are many great German football clubs, but nine times out of ten the reporter refers to Borussia Dortmund. They tell you how easy it is to get there, how cheap the tickets are – and of course, all about the Yellow Wall.
And they are absolutely right. Dortmund do indeed have great supporters. And the Yellow Wall cheering on their team is something any football fan would appreciate.
So fair play to the marketing people at Dortmund who have put the club right in the middle of world football consciousness and made it the go to place for ‘the Bundesliga experience’.

But it doesn’t have to be Dortmund.

There are plenty other great German football clubs that are just as easy to get to, where the tickets are just as cheap and where you can have an absolutely brilliant day out.

Why not go to Borussia Mönchengladbach?

A flight to Düsseldorf and a 45 minute train journey will take you to Mönchengladbach. A shuttle bus will then drop you off at a brand new stadium to join a crowd of 50,000 to cheer on the team that is currently fourth in the league, competing in the Europa League and playing some great football.

Borussia Mönchengladbach - another great German football club

Or how about Fortuna Düsseldorf?

This must be one of the most straightforward footballing days out you will ever have?

You can buy tickets ahead of the game at the tourist information office. The underground takes you literally to the entrance to the stadium, which was built for the world cup and has truly superb facilities. And you will get the full German footballing experience

It doesn’t have to be the Bundesliga.

The crowds might be smaller, but you can have a great experience at 2. Bundesliga and 3. Liga games.

You might like to take a look at VfL Bochum.

A 45 minute train journey from Düsseldorf and a 20 minute walk (or a 5 minute underground ride) gets you to a stadium with one of the warmest, fan-friendly atmospheres I have ever experienced.

Lower league football is well worth a trip

After the 3 professional leagues, German football is divided into five regional leagues.
If you are feeling even more adventurous, why not take a look at one of the Regionalliga teams?
Rot Weiss Essen, for example were German cup winners in 1952 and the first German team to play in Europe. Despite years of decline and turmoil on and off the pitch the club still has a huge and passionate fan base and games with local rivals are particularly intense, passionate affairs.

It doesn’t have to be Düsseldorf

I chose these four teams because they are all in or near Düsseldorf, which is the part of Germany I know best and because the transport infrastructure around Düsseldorf airport makes them easy to get to.
You could make the same case for teams in or near other major cities like Hamburg, Berlin, Leipzig, Stuttgart, Frankfurt and Munich.

And if you want, you can do it by yourself

There are plenty of great websites which will get tickets and organise travel and a hotel for you – but you don’t have to do it that way.
German public transport is efficient, reliable, cheap and really simple to use and match tickets usually entitle you to free transport to and from the ground.
Getting tickets direct from the clubs online is straightforward and more and more clubs offer Print@home, which allows you to print your ticket before you set off.
And most clubs either have an English section in their website, or someone at the end of a phone who can speak excellent English.

Find out more about German football

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« Older Entries

Understanding FC Schalke 04

FC Schalke 04: A different football experience

A town built on coal

Get there early

The Schalker Meile

Don’t rush to get in the ground

The Schalke Museum

Something to eat

An emotional moment

The anthem

A crowd in full voice

Songs and chants

Don’t hurry home

Come and see for yourelf

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Find out more about German football

Books about German football

Books about German football

Going to watch FC Schalke 04

Tickets for Schalke 04

Getting to Gelsenkirchen

Where to stay in Gelsenkirchen

Getting to the Veltins Arena

Inside the Veltins Arena

Museum

Eating and drinking

A sense of history

After the game

Three things to do in Gelsenkirchen

More posts you might like

Find out more about Schalke 04 and German football

Books about German football

Going to watch VfL Osnabrück

VfL Osnabrück: A traditional club, a proper ground and an electric atmosphere

Tickets

Getting to Osnabrück

Getting to the ground

Inside the Stadion an der Bremer Brücke

Find out more about German football

Other posts you might find interesting

Books about German football

Making the most of your football trip: Starting from Berlin

Why plan a football trip starting from Berlin?

Enough for a weekend of football

Much to explore beyond Berlin as well

Bundesliga clubs

2. Bundesliga clubs

3. Liga clubs

First a few practical details

Getting to Berlin

Plane

Train

Getting around in Berlin

Save money with the Berlin WelcomeCard

Getting around the region

Save money with the Berlin-Brandenburg ticket

The clubs you could visit

Bundesliga clubs

Hertha Berlin

Stadium

Tickets

Directions

Website

RBLeipzig

Stadium

Tickets

Directions

2 Bundesliga

Union Berlin

Fans

Stadium

Tickets

Directions

Website

Dynamo Dresden

Fans

Stadium

Tickets

Directions

Website