FC Schalke 04: An introduction

by John Alder | Nov 10, 2020 | Germany

FC Schalke 04: An introduction

In 1904 a group of young miners from Gelsenkirchen got together to play football. They had very little money, no kit to wear, no ball to play with. They didn’t even have a pitch to play on. This book tells the story of how the club they formed grew to become Schalke 04, one of the biggest, wealthiest and best-known sporting organisations in the world.
It describes the lives of famous players, takes a look at Schalke’s passionate fans, and explains why the club is so important to its town and region.
There is also plenty of practical information for anyone thinking of coming to see a game or wanting to follow Schalke from afar.

The Alliance of Independent Authors - Author Member

Find out more about German football

by John Alder | May 19, 2020 | German football books

German football is back!

Are you one of the millions of football-starved who fans binge-watched live games from the German Bundesliga this weekend?

Do you want to find out more about German football?

These books are a great place to start.

German Football Books: Borussia Moenchengladbach

Borussia Mönchengladbach : an introduction sets out to share the history, tradition, triumphs and disappointments of this great club with the English-speaking world. The book tells the story of Borussia from its foundation in 1900 to the present day. As well as biographies of former players and managers and famous anecdotes, there is a wealth of background information for English speakers considering a visit to Germany or wanting to follow the club from afar.

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

German Football Books: Bayer 04 Leverkusen

Bayer 04 Leverkusen is another big club with a rich and proud history. Founded in 1904 by employees of a local factory it has grown to become one of the most successful clubs in Germany.

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

Are you planning a football trip to Germany once lockdown is over?

This short guide will help you plan your trip and decide which clubs to visit. There is also key information on every club in the top three divisions as well as links to the best books, websites, blogs and podcasts.

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

German Football Books: Discovering German football

This short book tells the story of Fortuna Düsseldorf – one of Germany’s oldest and best-known football clubs. As well as describing the history, triumphs and disappointments of this historic club it also tells the life-stories of its best-known players and coaches.
It is also packed with practical information to help football fans plan a trip to Düsseldorf and get the most out of their time in the city and its region.

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

And click here for more information

The Football Tourist's Guide to the Ruhrgebiet

Bordered by the rivers Rhine, Ruhr and Lippe the Ruhrgebiet is one of Germany’s ‘hidden gems’. A vibrant, exciting and thoroughly modern metropolis, it is steeped in history and tradition.

For over 100 years it has also been the beating heart of German football.

This guidebook introduces its major cities and towns, the history, culture and traditions of its people and its football clubs. There is advice on how to plan a visit and where to find out more.

Buy now from Amazon UK

Buy now from Amazon US

And click here for more information

Imprint Privacy Sitemap

The German football season comes to an end

by John Alder | Jun 18, 2019 | Football

Another German football season is over.

Who were at the winners and losers?

Which teams will be playing where next year?

The Bundesliga – excitement right to the end

Yet again Bayern München are Bundesliga champions, but Borussia Dortmund chased them to the very last game. For a time it even looked as if Dortmund might be able to knock Bayern off their pedestal. As recently as February the Munich team were seven points behind. Although Bayern eventually inched ahead, only two points separated the two teams on the final day. Despite beating Borussia Mönchengladbach 2:0 Dortmund finished the season two points behind the champions. Had Bayern lost against Frankfurt on the same day, Dortmund would have won the league.

The best of the rest

Dortmund will join third and fourth-placed RB Leipzig and Bayer 04 Leverkusen in next season’s Champions League.

The final day defeat to Dortmund means Borussia Mönchengladbach miss out on a Champions League place. But they will join VfL Wolfsburg in the Europa League. Eintracht Frankfurt had a brilliant season, playing exciting and attractive football. for a while had a real chance of finishing in the Bundesliga top four. Instead, by finishing 7th they have just pipped Werder Bremen to the final Europa League qualifiers slot.

Going down

At the other end of the table 1 FC Nürnberg, Hannover 96 and VfB Stuttgart drop down to the second tier.

Coming up

1 FC Köln have bounced back to the first division after just one season in the second division. They are joined by SC Paderborn 07 who end a rollercoaster five-year sequence of crises, relegations, promotions and changes of coach by finishing second.

Union Berlin just missed out on automatic promotion, but beat VfB Stuttgart in the promotion/relegation playoffs.

Biggest disappointment

FC Schalke 04 fans are probably this season’s most disappointed supporters. A second place finish in 2017/18 and the prospect of European football meant there was huge anticipation in the Veltins Arena that the Gelsenkirchen club would start to fulfil its huge potential. As it turned out Schalke finished 14th and only just avoided relegation.

German football teams in Europe

In 2018/19 German clubs under-performed in Europe. TSG Hoffenheim and FC Schalke 04 failed to progress past the group stage and both Bayern and Dortmund were eliminated in the first knockout stage by Liverpool and Spurs.

Bayer 04 Leverkusen and RB Leipzig were knocked out of the Europa League at the group stage.

Eintracht Frankfurt bucked the trend and came agonisingly close to reaching the final of the Europa League – losing a penalty shootout to Chelsea in the semi-final.

2 Bundesliga – another drop for Ingolstadt

MSV Duisburg and 1 FC Magdeburg are automatically relegated to the third division. They are joined by Ingolstadt 04 who failed to beat Wehen Wiesbaden to avoid the drop.

3. Liga – Osnabrück have a fantastic season

VfL Osnabrück, Karlsruher SC and Wehen Wiesbaden all go up.

VfR Aalen, Fortuna Köln, Sportfreunde Lotte, Energie Cottbus drop down to the Regionalligen.

Their places will be taken by Viktoria Köln, Chemnitz FC, Waldhof Mannheim and Bayern II.

DFB Cup – another trophy for Bayern

On 25 May Bayern München beat RB Leipzig in the cup final in Berlin, winning all three domestic trophies yet again.

The top three leagues 2019/2020

1 Bundesliga

2 Bundesliga

Find out more about German Football

The cover of Discovering German Football

Book Cover - The German Ruhrgebiet: a guide for visitors

The cover of the Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet

Book cover - Bayero4 Leverkusen: an introduction

Book cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach and introduction

Book cover - FC Schalke 04 and introduction

Book cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf and introduction

Books about German football

Book cover - Discovering German Football

Book Cover - Borussia Mönchengladbach: an introdction

Book cover - Schalke 04: an introduction

Book cover - Bayer 04 Leverkusen: and introduction

Book cover - Football Tourist's Guide to the German Ruhrgebiet

Book Cover - Fortuna Düsseldorf: an introduction

RB Leipzig – A trip planner

by John Alder | Jan 31, 2019 | Football, Travel in Germany

RB Leipzig – A brand new club

In 2008 energy drink manufacturer Red Bull purchased the playing rights of SSV Markranstädt, a little known fifth division club close to Leipzig. This was the first step in establishing a brand new football club called Rasenballsport Leipzig (RB Leipzig). This new club, formally launched in May 2009, had the ambition of gaining promotion to the Bundesliga within eight years.

Although RB Leipzig began playing in the old Markrandstädt stadium in the Oberliga, plans were already in place to move to the larger and more modern Zentralstadion. After buying the rights to rename it the Red Bull Arena the club moved to its new home in 2010.

The Red Bulls quickly gained promotion into the Regionalliga and then rose through the divisions before finally winning promotion to the Bundesliga at the end of the 2015/16 season.

Controversial from the start

It is an understatement to say that RB Leipzig is a controversial club. For some, it is a modern success story. They argue that astute management on and off the pitch, an exciting, an entertaining brand of football and first-class youth academy make it the club most likely to break the dominance of Bayern München.

For others, it is a total betrayal of German football’s values. These people consider RB Leipzig to be a marketing tool and believe the owners are ksimply buying success. They think the club is bypassing rules designed to ensure fans retain ownership of their clubs and presents a risk to the values and traditions that make German football so special.

There have been fan boycotts, protests and demonstrations – but the club has continued its steady, inexorable march through the leagues. The fanbase has grown each year, and it looks like it is here to stay.

Tickets for RB Leipzig

Ticket prices vary depending on the opponent. The cheapest start at 20,00 euros and the most expensive cost 70 euros. There is an online shop, and you can also get tickets at the ground. The club website also has a ticket exchange section (Ticketbörse) where you can buy returns.

Getting to Leipzig

There are direct flights from London Stansted to Leipzig/Halle airport. There are regular trains into the city centre.

The other easy way to get to Leipzig is to travel via Berlin which has two international airports.

Berlin-Tegel is to the north-west of the city and Berlin-Schönefeld to the south-east. The two airports run a combined website, which will give you a good idea of departure points.

Getting into town is simple:

• From Tegel, bus 128 will take you to “Kurt-Schumacher-Platz” where you can take the U6 underground into the city centre.

• The S9 and S45 trains link Schönefeld to the city transport system. A taxi will cost about 25 euros.

There are regular trains between Berlin and Leipzig. You can order a ticket with Deutsche Bahn or Loco2.

Getting to the Red Bull Arena

You can walk from the central station to the ground in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, trams 3, 7 and 15 will take you there – your stop is called ‘Sportforum.’

Inside the BayArena

Since 2010 RB Leipzig has played in the Red Bull Arena. It is a thoroughly modern stadium with 42,959 seats and all the amenities you could expect or need.

They operate a cashless payment system inside the ground. You can order a cashless card with you ticket, or pick one up at one of the clearing points in or near the Arena. You load it with cash and then use it like a debit card to buy food and drink. When you leave you can get a repayment of any money still on your card.

Other things to do in Leipzig

There’s plenty of history in Leipzig, but it is also a very modern and vibrant place. You will have no trouble finding things to do before and after the football. Here are three suggestions:

1. Wander around the Altstadt

The old centre of Leipzig is full of carefully restored historic buildings. There are also plenty of shops, cafes and bars.

2. Visit the Stasi Museum

The Stasi was East Germany’s notorious security police force. This museum, which is based in its former Leipzig headquarters, documents how it was used to spy on the entire population and to crush any dissent.

3. Go to the Nikolaikirche

Events at this church contributed significantly to the peaceful overthrow of the East German regime and the eventual reunification of the country. In September 1989 huge numbers people started to gather here to pray for peace. Prayers were then followed by mass demonstrations as people marched through the streets demanding change. The largest gathering consisted of 70,000 people. Although soldiers and security police were on standby to crush these protests, the orders never came, and eventually, the DDR leadership gave in, and eventually the whole system collapsed.

Find out more about German football

Books about German football

Understanding FC Schalke 04

by John Alder | Jan 13, 2019 | Football trips, German History, Travel in Germany

FC Schalke 04: A different football experience

Some people think that going to the Veltins Arena to see Schalke 04 is just like any other German footballing experience.

You will have a ticket that did not require a second mortgage to buy. You will sit or stand amongst a passionate, partisan crowd. You will hopefully see some excellent football and you will have a couple of beers and a Bratwurst. In short, you will enjoy a typical Bundesliga game.

I believe that if you are willing to take your time and if you have a little background information, you can get much more from the day. Let me be your guide to a richer Schalke experience and let me help you better understand this club, its fans, history and culture.

A town built on coal

If you can, travel to Gelsenkirchen by train, and take a good look at the industrial and post-industrial landscape around this former mining town. You will probably pass though cities like Duisburg, Essen, Dortmund or Bochum – famous in their day for coal, steel, heavy industry.
A few winding towers indicate where some of the many mines used to be and isolated factory chimneys help you imagine what the skyline must have looked like 100 years ago.
Some large plants remain, but you will mainly see the reminders of what was once Germany’s industrial power house – empty plots of land that were once covered by huge factories, slag heaps converted into walking trails, abandoned railway buildings.

Get there early

Make sure you arrive at Gelsenkirchen station at least four hours before kick-off. Spend a bit of time in the station forecourt where hundreds of fans will have already gathered. Someone will have set up a sound system nearby which is blasting out classic club songs. People will be meeting friends, eating, drinking beer, talking about the game ahead.

A little further from the station you go down a set of steps to catch the 301 tram towards the Veltins Arena. But don’t go all the way there straight away. Make sure you get off at a stop called Schalker Meile.

The Schalker Meile

Schalke was the name of the working class district of Gelsenkirchen where the club was born. Players and fans came from this area of town. This is where the miners and their families lived, worked and played. This is where Schalke’s first stadium – Glückauf-Kampfbahn was built. This is where the triumphs of the 1920s and 1930s were celebrated and talked about.

Since those heady days, everything has changed. Thanks to de-industrialisation the district has gone into steep decline and the thriving working-class community of old is no more. The club moved three kilometres to the north many years ago – first to the Parkstadion and more recently into the shiny new Veltins Arena. But many fans still cherish Schalke’s roots. They remember that Schalke is a place as well as a club. They lament the fact that you can support the modern Schalke 04 without ever setting foot in the part of town whose name the club carries and without knowing a thing about its origins and history.

In 2006 a group of fans got together to do something about this – to make sure that this part of town and its history do not get forgotten. They wanted to create a second royal blue haven.
And so the project Schalker Meile was born. The idea was to fill a stretch of the road between the old Schalker Markt and the original Glückauf stadium – the route once walked by hundreds of thousands of fans – with as many reminders of Schalke 04 as possible.
Electricity pylons are painted in the club colours and empty shop windows are decorated with signs. The branding and advertising of local businesses all reference the club. There is even a tram stop called ‘Schalker Meile’.

The Schalke fan club (90,000 members) runs a pub called ‘Auf Schalke’.

There is a fan shop next door.

A bit further on, you pass the tobacconist shop run by former player Ernst Kuzorra until 1974when it was taken over by another Schalke legend – Reinhardt Libuda.

Schalke 04 fan shop on the Schalker Meile

Towards the end of the Meile and right next to the old stadium there is another pub called ‘das Bosch’. This is where the players used to drink. A sign indicates Ernst Kuzorra’s regular seat. Its now the home of a fan group called ‘ Kuzorra’s grandchildren’ as well as pub of choice of countless Schalke fans. It gets its name from the famous landlord Gerd Bosch. Although he died in 1998 none of his successors have dared to change the name.

And finally you arrive at the old Glückauf-Kampfbahn. Although looking sadly run down, it is still in use for youth games.

On match days you will see hundreds of Schalke fans outside both pubs or just standing and talking ahead of the game. It is not difficult to imagine this street in the 1930s when Schalke were literally unbeatable at home, winning trophy after trophy for over a decade.

Don’t rush to get in the ground

You can get back on the 301 tram at the next stop. This will take you to the stadium.
Get off at the Veltins Arena stop and follow the flow of fans towards to ground. But don’t go thumb_P1020589_1024

inside yet. If you have followed my advice and arrived extra early it won’t be open anyway, but even if it is, follow the pathways round to the left and walk through the training pitches. The fact that these are just open on match days for fans to wander around is remarkable in itself – but just as impressive is what is available for them. At the far side of the pitches there is a fan shop, of course, but also a huge bar with a massive outside area serving beer and sausages. The message from the club is clear – we value and welcome our fans.

thumb_P1020593_1024

Directly opposite the shop there is a wagon used to transport coal donated by a local mine.

thumb_P1020592_1024

Next to it is the Kumpelkiste. This is a collection point for donations of food and clothing to be passed on to people in need. ‘Kumpel’ is slang for pal or workmate. For me the two objects reveal not only a sense of history, but also a feeling of solidarity.

The Schalke Museum

Now make your way back to the stadium and go inside. Your ticket will tell you the best gate to enter by. But don’t go to your seat yet Go and find the Schalke Museum, which opens two hours ahead of kick-off. This is plenty of time to take a look at the club’s history. Even if you don’t speak a word of German, half an hour wandering amongst the displays will give you a feel for Schalke’s roots and go some way to explaining why fans are so passionate and proud. You will learn about the club’s beginnings in 1904 and its early struggle for stability. You find out that Schalke didn’t lose a single home game from 1933 to 1942, were unbeaten in six of those seasons and appeared in 14 out of 18 national finals . There is, of course, plenty of detail about all the silverware the club as gathered. There are pictures of Schalke greats like Ernst Kuzorra and Fritz Szepan. You can enter a ‘sitting room’ packed with memorabilia. TV scree thumb_P1020613_1024

ns show footage of games from the early days until the present. And if you enjoy nothing else in the museum, I guarantee you will be blown away by the view of the stadium from here, and which justifies the 5 euro entrance fee on its own.

Something to eat

Next, I suggest you have a beer and something to eat. Like most German stadiums, prices are really affordable and you can take you drink with you to your seat.

One thing that’s a bit thumb_P1020697_1024 different at Schalke is that you can’t use cash. You have to go to one of the many kiosks and pick up and load a Knappenkarte. It then works just like a debit card – and if you don’t spend all the money on the card you can get it back before you leave.

Refreshed and fed, it’s time to go to your seat and enjoy the crowd. Notice how full the stands are and how much noise the fans are making well before kickoff. Don’t miss the pictures and names of great former players posted high up where everyone can see them.

An emotional moment

I think that what comes next is the most magical part of the Schalke experience. Just before the teams come out the entire crowd stands up to sing a slow, sad song called the Steigerlied (the miner’s song). It almost feels like you are in church. Everyone joins in and the emotion and respect are palpable. This song is a traditional mining song about a miner about to go down to the coalface. It’s been sung here, at other local grounds, and at political meetings for decades and is basically a tribute to the brave men who risked their lives and health every day to bring up the coal which powered German industry. These were the men who founded the club. This was the background of Schalke’s players and fans. To underline the message, black and white footage of miners at work is shown on the big screen. The song starts and ends with the words ‘Glück auf’, which is a traditional miners’ greeting recognised all over Germany. The words mean something like ‘Good luck and a safe return’, but the greeting evokes memories of harder times.
The message is clear : “Schalke might be the twelfth wealthiest football club in the world and play in one of Europe’s most modern stadiums but we have not forgotten our roots.”

The anthem

Then we get the Schalke Anthem : Blau und weiß wie lieb ich dich (blue and white how I love you). Again, everyone joins in noisily. Scarves and flags are waved and the emotion rises yet another notch. You can hear this song for yourself on YouTube.

A crowd in full voice

By now the players are out and the game will begin. Enjoy the sights and sounds of a 61,000 crowd in full voice. Notice the huge standing area behind one of the goals.
In the UK, there are quite often periods of quiet in a game. Crowds tend to shout and sing in response to the action on the pitch. In Germany this is always different – the ultras at the home end, choreographed and directed by people at the front with megaphones, make a noise from start to finish. The difference at Schalke is that there is noise for the entire game from all sides of the ground.

Songs and chants

If Schalke score the crowd will sing
Ein Leben lang
Blau und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
Blaue und weiss ein Leben lang
A lifetime long
Blue and white a lifetime long …

You might also hear them singing :
FC Schalke mein verein
Ich steh immer für dich ein
Ob du gewinnst oder verlierst
Ich stehe immer hinter dir
FC Schalke my club
I will always stand up for you
Whether you win or lose
I will always be behind you

Don’t hurry home

Hopefully you will see lots of good football, an exciting game and a few goals. At the end of the game, don’t rush off. There’s a bit of a crush to get back on the tram to town, and the first trains out of Gelsenkirchen can be a bit crowded. So stay in your seat and watch the players come and thank the fans. Notice how many fans are still in the stands.
Why not then hang around the stadium for a while, have something to eat and drink along with the thousands of others who are still there.

Come and see for yourelf

I hope that this short article has inspired you come to the Veltins Arena and enjoy the full Schalke experience in person. I guarantee that you will not just attend an exciting sporting event. You will also witness and celebration of history, community and shared values.

Find out more about German football

Books about German football

« Older Entries